#0043: My experience running TTRGP games

#0043: My experience running TTRGP games

Preamble

The date is July of 2026. Hot as fuck summer (32°C indoors), and all I have to keep me cool is a broken desk fan that I found on the side of the road two years ago and “temporarily fixed” as I write this. It’s still waiting for its proppah fix… any day now.

On point. Well basically, a former work-friend of mine is coming back into town, and we want to use his visit as an excuse to play some D&D with 2 other workmates. So me and 3 players. In essence I wish to document the high-level experience that I had here, as well as reminisce on previous campaigns. However, I will leave out the nitty-gritty details of the play sessions themselves. That is for another article. THIS article is for venting about people.

As an aside: I hope you like the AI assets in the title graphic; as I make considerable use of it in my campaign. For example this picture above is of my campaign’s Roll20 splash-page. I find AI useful for generating visual assets to spark both the players’ imaginations, as well as my own. I know it is a contentious issue today, especially with artists; and people are quick to become tribal on such matters.

However, if it makes you feel any better: they have yet to receive a penny from me. At least at the time of writing this. A time after I have made considerable use of it to generate lots of images for settings, items, and characters. Mostly using a free account, and only recently a free trail. It has its place in my opinion. And I am happy to enjoy this (in my opinion) non-sustainable technology while it lasts.

NOTE #1: The original title here is: “Running my first TTRGP game”. Decided to clarify the title post-hoc for messaging accuracy. But it wasn’t worth doing all the required down-flow edits/re-writes.

NOTE #2: While digging into my dormant TTRPG files for this article, I found an old folder filled with Tumblr “Lucky Star” memes in it from ~2016. And since my old Roll20 account has Izumi Konata as its avatar. Seems natural to include them here. Enjoy.

My previous experience with TTRPGs

Now I know the title says “first”, but I have GM’ed two games before. (Lies I know, every day I drift further from God.) Both were during the 2020 lockdowns. The actual first game was a D&D5e module called “Lost Mine of Phandelver”. It came in a beginner box kit: with dice, character sheets, and a basic rulebook. It was a good buy to just get started. That campaign ended with a random encounter as the headless party of 3. (1 old-school friend and 2 of his friends.) Met their end travelling out of Phandalin to a random map marker. I think it was a wizard’s tower with a juvenile green dragon living there. They got murked by rolling an Owl Bear that came at them like a steam train. And they did not appreciate the idea of a tactical retreat. More on this later.

The second game I ran was a home-brew game of Shadowrun 6th edition. I called it Neo-London. Fantastic setting! Magic and Machines, within a corporate dystopia. Where actual wizards could be wage-slaves, working the Chinese 996, writing endless documentation on a new experimental magic drug that reverses ageing but only in Dwarfs — until a Shadowrunner mercenary terrorist-for-hire with two pogo sticks for legs breaks into your office block and shoots your co-workers to death, before beheading the security droid with a fucking samurai sword. And coming fo-yo ass. Shieeet! And you were only 5 days away from retirement.

Anyway Shadowrun has a great world but a shit rulebook. It has more spooling and grammar mis-steaks than the shit I write. Which is an achievement. If you really want a laff check out their errata document. All 10 pages of it! (Well 9 minus title page). That’s still too much. The latest one I could find is their 2019 August errata doc. (EDIT 2026-10: found another one. Errata 2020-feb.) And I have found many errors in the core rulebook not mentioned in this document. (Off the top of my head) I remember referencing of the “wild dice” mechanic, which is not featured in 6th edition. I believe it is an erroneous copy-paste from the 5th edition rulebook. The point is the rulebook is very poorly written and edited. I found numerous errors on my first read. I found numerous errors on my first read. (That’s an inside joke. Read their rulebook and you’ll get it.)

The superior 1st Edition logo 😉

This game suddenly ended in a very similar manner as the D&D one. A TPK fighting a Babayaga-esque crocodile shaman. While trying to ambush her as she was in animal form having sex with a giant crocodile familiar in her house. They saw two giant crocodiles in a house fucking in the middle of the NeoLondon wild swamp, called Hackney Marshes. I.e. an isolated area with no one around to help if things go south. They thought yeah lets jump them, and steal their MacGuffin.

Well. While the Shaman took her human form, the crocodile familiar grabbed one PC (their healer shaman I think) and she just couldn’t break away, nor was anyone else interested in helping her. The house suddenly stood up on its chicken legs (which they saw previously but ignored). Another PC (Elf Decker Face) failed a dex check equivalent and fell down off of the house and landed poorly. Hurting themselves severely. Then the Street Samurai fought and lost against the Shaman and was blown out of the window. Failed his dex check then fell off the house, and knocked prone. The Birdhouse on its turn sat down on both of them. Killing them. Leaving the last PC in the house as croc chow. Fun times.

All the while a tactical retreat was never even considered. Nor was a plan of attack for that matter. Same players as before by the way. In fairness things did go south rather quickly. But then these things tend to happen that way. You can only telegraph so much to people, before things need to start happening. I remember deciding to end it like that because I was feeling done playing with these people, and the TPK gave a clean exit point. So I decided not to pull any punches. Note, I didn’t purposefully go in trying to kill them. I just didn’t shield them from the consequences of their actions. Something that I had been doing repeatedly in this campaign to date. Letting players off despite severe misplays. Such as disrespecting regional powers: AKA local gang lords.

Illustrative example that I just made up. (It’s been too long to remember specifics from their game.)

GM: “You arrive at the boxing gym after hours, and meet the gang lord, an old man named ‘Brick-top'”.

PC: “I stare him down, walk up to him, and spit in his face. Then challenge him to a match. I have a good body stat, and have done boxing before in my backstory right GM? I should win this. Can I roll for intimidation like in D&D?”

They really should have been chopped up into pieces and fed to pigs long ago…

Okay. It wasn’t that bad. However I do remember them disrespecting and dismissing quest givers. It became frustrating, because say I want them to do this mission; however they just dressed down and dismissed the NPC who’s trying to give it to them. Then they complain that they don’t know what to do. Resulting in me either having to make the NPC act out of character in order to give them the next job, or have the job get called in from another NPC altogether. Saying that they heard about it. Only to get a response such as, “why are we wasting time with this NPC, if the other one knows everything. Why did you send us here.” It was annoying, especially when the players think that they are out collecting info/clues. When in fact they are burning bridges with every faction they encounter. By being absolute cunts to everyone… and oblivious about it to boot.

Let me complain some more to you about my Players

In the previous two campaigns that I ran, I encountered a lot of things that genuinely annoyed me to the point that I lost motivation to be a Game Master. Probably the first and most important is a lack of respect for my time and efforts. This is the master issue that filters down into (most if not) all the other issues that I have had with players.

Let’s start with: Players with bad time management and scheduling. Some of these people genuinely do not understand that the game needs to be prepared for them to play it. In other words I have to read and/or create a scenario including all NPCs, items, points of interest, and how the story webs all these aspects together, as well as prepare combat encounters. This took me from memory about 90-120 minutes prior to a session to do. (Mostly due to my inexperience running homebrews… and knowing rules.)

I have had fickle players that either do not answer simple questions regarding scheduling. “When are you free next week?”. Or if they do give a day, they’ll suddenly cancel on that day. An hour prior if they contact me at all. I have had no-call, no-shows. That then get annoyed when they are no longer invited, and the game continued without them. “I don’t understand. So what happened to my character?” WTF do you care – you ain’t playing bitch.

Less annoying but still an issue. I have had players randomly contact me on an afternoon (keep in mind lock-down) and say something like: “Me and the guys are all free right now. Want to carry on the game?” I’m thinking in a few hours, no they mean now. They are only available now, and only for three hours before what’s-her-name needs to go. They want to jump on apropos of nothing and play a couple of rounds like it’s Team Fortress 2 or something. And when I decline, due to lack of time to prepare. Then I am the problem because I am “refusing to play when everyone is available. Yet complaining about players not being available.”

Next is players with a bad attitude. I have had players treat me like a video game; expecting me to manage everything for them behind the scenes. I have had lazy players that actually have criticised me for not keeping track of their personal stats. This means remembering what equipment they have, how much money is in their purse or credsticks, how much ammunition they have left, or spell slots that they have used. I have had players expect me to keep track of all of that for them personally; whilst also running the world for everyone. While they just sit back and enjoy the ride. Lazy, entitled, and passive. What a combo meal.

When I told them that they are expected to keep track of their own equipment, I got a “..then what are you doing?” or something to that effect. They also said something akin to “then what’s stopping me from just saying whatever…”. Basically without supervision: who’s stopping them from cheating. YOU! What adult needs the childhood lesson of don’t cheat: because you primarily cheat yourself. I just remember feeling and hearing the words in my head that I am never playing with this garbage again. Because the guy was dead serious, that he needed me to manage his character for him, or else… Kept my word too. Never played with him again. Thumbs up.

Now I can honestly complain here all day but for brevity I will end on this last one. This is the lack of social cues / basic understanding player. This is the player who either doesn’t understand, appreciate, or care as to what has been created/prepared for them. Instead they want to do whatever they want in the moment. In my case it was a player playing Lost Mine of Phandelver who had absolutely no interest in going to the “Mine” wait-for-it… “of Phandelver”. They ignored all plot hooks (because they weren’t interested in the story), and then got upset when there wasn’t anything for them to do outside of it.

And somehow that meant that I was a bad DM to them. Not that they are a bad player who doesn’t comply with the social contract of a TTRPG. You are there to play the module if you are playing a module, if you made a character who is not interested in the story of the game: then you made a bad character. Re-roll. That rule also doesn’t change when playing a home-brew as well. The point is that you can’t have a PC that doesn’t have (or want) a place in the story.

Heck that logic even applies to sandbox games. Where you could make the free-roam argument. Imagine a player who immediately wanted to travel beyond the border mountains at the edge of the game map. Essentially stepping out of the story. (If you are pedantic: then it’s the location where the emergent story happens. Happy? I know I’m not.)

For example: if you were reading the RPG play-book “Island of the Lizard King”; and as soon as your boat lands on the island, you chose to get back on the boat and wait within it until it sets sail again. Maybe even opting to hijack a better boat en-route to the next isle.

Well at that point, are you still playing Island of the lizard king – if you promptly left the Lizard King’s fucking island! Is ye?! Son you’re playing Sid Meier’s Pirates at that point. Problem is, you’re not holding a 1987 floppy disk copy of Sid Meier’s Pirates, is ye? No sir. You are not. You’re holding a copy of Ian Livingstone’s Island of the Lizard King that you stole from the school library 26 years ago. You absolute head-spun Bumbaclaat! Change your ways.

image taken from: fightingfantasy.net

What I learned from running the previous two campaigns

Golden rule: set proper expectations! Do it early and clearly. If a player isn’t receptive to your rules and expectations, then they are not the players for your game. And it’s better to know that upfront, before you have invested in them. It is really as simple as that.

A) set proper expectations for the game.

This means that I need to provide players with my general CoC. (heh.) These are the rules below. However I also need to explain to them the type or format of game that I am running. What type of game am I playing? Is it a narrative-based role-playing-heavy game with theatre of the mind combat. Where your characters’ backstories are actually important, and you can pass through situations just by good acting on behalf of the players themselves.

Alternatively is the game a grindy crunchy combat-focused dungeon crawler where the player characters are just disposable cannon fodder thrown into a pit of hate and shit. A la Darkest Dungeon. Where you actually need to track exact location in combat, resources, food, drink, weight limits, etcetera. As well as have backup characters, for when inevitably they suddenly die. Having a player come in expecting one thing and getting another is a recipe for disappointment.

B) provide players with a general Code of Conduct.

I haven’t formalised my rules yet, but here goes for a rough draft.

  1. Respect other people’s time. Show up and on time. If you can’t make it, then give ample notice. If you can’t make it repeatedly, gracefully bow out. Rather than repeatedly stalling the campaign, expecting everyone to continually reschedule around you.
  2. Play the content. Play what has been prepared to play. Understand this social contract. Prior to you showing up I prepared content for you to play. Play it.
  3. No sabotaging other player’s fun. No PvP, or sabotaging other players’ plans and schemes. This quickly creates bad feeling amongst players that kills campaigns.
  4. It is your responsibility to keep track of your character. Stats, money, ammunition, equipment, and relationships.
  5. Remember that this is a co-operative game. We are all trying to play/enjoy a story together. The player and Game Master cannot have an antagonistic relationship.
  6. Do not cheat. This is common sense. But must be stated. Do not alter your stats, resources, or fudge rolls just to “win”.

Initially I did not want to provide a hard rule-set like the one above because I feared that it can be a buzz kill and put players off of playing my campaigns. However I have tried being laissez-faire, and that simply doesn’t work for me. Since I do put a lot of effort into preparation, I am prone to resentment if it is either disregarded and/or not appreciated. I realise that the players who would be put off by this simple enough set of rules, I do not want to play with. Because at the end of the day we are all playing for the same reasons I hope: a little bit of fun and escapism. It shouldn’t be this complicated. And I think these rules would help filter out a lot of the trash. To put it bluntly.

Acronyms used

AI – Artificial Intelligence
AKA – Also Known As
CoC – Code of Conduct
D&D5e – Dungeons and Dragons 5th edition
DM – Dungeon Master
GM – Game Master
NPC – Non-Player Character
PC – Player Character
PvP – Player Versus Player
SR – Shadow Run
TPK – Total Party Kill
TTRPG – Table Top Role Playing Games
WTF – Why/What The Fuck

Recent session summary and closing thoughts

I found the draft for this article in October 2026. Another abandoned write-up. Well, might as well cap this article off for posting. I had the roleplay session, it was the first one ever that I played in-person. (It was all online during lock-down.) We played a D&D5e homebrew campaign called “Into the Underdark: The Centipede express.” It was supposed to be a one-shot containing evil 6th level characters on a train to hell. However it has since spun into a mini campaign.

We played it after work, with permission, in an unused back office. It was a lot of fun honestly. A bit choppy at the start, but once the initial awkwardness and self-awareness wore off. It rolled on well. I was happy with the result.

One important thing to note about it. It really is ironic. The work-friend who actually pushed for it to happen in the first place, I ended up throwing out of the group. He ended up being one of my no-no player types. The flaky selfish idiot.

I’ll keep it short. Firstly we had to reschedule because he wasn’t available when the other two players and I were. He gave no reason for this. Just that he couldn’t come. Then on the rescheduled day, he needed to be chased up for availability. “The game is on at 4-5 PM, is your character sheet ready?” His response, despite having more than a month to create a basic character, and OWNING all the 2014, and 2024 core books, as well as supplementals such as “Volo’s guide to Monsters”, and “Xanathar’s guide to everything”. He has spent more than £200 on books alone, yet has yet to play a game of any kind…

Anyway his response was firstly that he did not create his character yet. Yet!? Apparently he did not have any time to do so within the month’s notice that he had. In addition he said that he didn’t know if he was available today. This is scant hours before the game was scheduled to begin. Long story short, I learnt from the grapevine that he planned on going bowling earlier that day, and wanted to keep his options open by being non-committal with us. That way he could stay out longer if he felt like it.

Also when I learnt that he had not created his character yet. Despite the other two players — complete newbies having done so. I decided that the man was a complete clown-show; and dropped him from the group. Then set up an in-person game come Monday. He was also the reason why we had to go online in the first place. Incurring additional logistical work for me. Uploading and editing all the materials, as well as tech tests for the players. As they were unfamiliar with Roll20’s eccentricities. He also didn’t even create an account. He was planning on doing it on the day.

So this person, despite being the initial catalyst for running the game. Being active in the group chat in the month between inception, and game day. Buying and owning more books than I do! Having the day of the game rescheduled solely for his convenience, and having the venue changed from in-person after work to Roll20.net again solely for him. Knowing that that increased my workload, as well as cost the other players money; as they had to buy hardware to play. (One got a laptop, and the other bought a mic.) Decided that it wasn’t important enough for him to prioritise above bowling. People like him are completely lost-cause selfish. And what they don’t realise is that their selfishness actually ultimately hurts them the most. Steadily burning all their good bridges, until finally isolating them on a desert island of their own making. A bit dramatic I know, but no actually Fuck’em.

If you ever encounter players (or people) like this in general, kick them out of your game (and life if you can); as soon as possible. Because people like this genuinely DO NOT CARE about anyone other than themselves. (And even then, it is only their current self, here today. No thought is given to their future self, and their need.) The respect and reciprocity that you are waiting on, is simply not coming. There will be no sudden awakening… and to keep giving users second and third chances is folly. All you are doing is giving them another chance (that you paid for) for them to waste. Better to spend one’s core resources elsewhere. These being: Time, Energy, and Attention. Life is limited, don’t waste it on people who aren’t appreciative. Kick’em out.

Thank you for reading my therapeutic rant. (+15 mood: catharsis.)

Links, references, and further reading

https://villains.fandom.com/wiki/Brick_Top
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/996_working_hour_system
https://marketplace.roll20.net/browse/bundle/9403/dandd-lost-mine-of-phandelver
https://shadowrunsixthworld.com/resources/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Island_of_the_Lizard_King

#0042: Creating a charging cable for a pair of Hatteker RFC-691 electric hair clippers

#0042: Creating a charging cable for a pair of Hatteker RFC-691 electric hair clippers

Preamble

This article will contain a guide to creating a basic DIY replacement charging cable. This cable is for a battery powered portable pair of electric hair clippers. Brand “Hatteker”, model “RFC-691”. A simple Chinese brand cheap pair of clippers whose proprietary charger has been misplaced. In addition to the tutorial itself, I will also opine on the value of ad-hoc crafts such as this.

Technical specifications (from device label information)

Description: Battery powered portable shaver
Brand: Hatteker
Model: RFC-691
Input: 5V DC @ 1000mA
Battery: 1x Li-ion 18650 – 1200mAh
Charge time: 1.5 hours

Hatteker RFC-691 official cable examination

The cable being replaced here is a simple DC-to-DC charging cable. It has a male USB-A plug on one end, and an IEC 60320 C7 style female plug on the other. Albeit miniaturised, polarity-keyed, and proprietary. It only has 2 lines, positive and negative. Additionally it has no active electronics. Simply passing the power directly from any standard USB-A power source to the clippers. The cable’s device is rated for 5 watts. Specifically: 5 volts direct current, at a 1 ampere max current. (It is assumed that the official cable would be built to that specification.) Very straight forward, very simple.

Why make a charge cable in general?

Why make a charge cable over buying a replacement? There are several reasons. These may include: saving time, saving money, being unable to source a replacement, or simply wanting to for fun.

With regards to saving time: it may be quicker to simply make a replacement, here and now from junk. Then it is to buy another one and wait for delivery. This is whilst also having to deal with all the potential issues that could arise within that process. One may not have the luxury of waiting the time required in order to get one’s device operable again. It may need to be working ASAP.

Now with regards to saving money. There are two factors to consider here. One is: whether or not it is in the budget. If there is no money for it, then there is no money for it. Period. It doesn’t matter how small the sum. However in my case, I simply do not want to spend the £5 odd pounds that I am seeing for what essentially is a low quality random after-market cable. One that is likely to break in a few months simply from use. Not when I can either make a better one that will last, or a free one (monetarily speaking) of comparable quality that I can then replace/fix whenever it does break.

The third reason I listed is being unable to source the exact accessory for my specific make and model. This is an issue that I have encountered after a cursory search on eBay (at the time of repair in 2025). The cable that I have found supports both model RFC-690 and RFC-692. So in all likelihood it will support my RFC-691. However it doesn’t explicitly state that it supports model RFC-691. So there is a chance that I could end up wasting time and money on an incompatible cable, even if I return it. Since I will have to pay return postage.

The fourth reason stated is for fun (aaaand profit). It’s enjoyable to make things. It is even more enjoyable to make useful things. Since one will be periodically reminded of their own abilities and competency whenever they use an item that they actually made themselves. It’s human nature. It provides a Rimworld style small mood buff: “+3 mood: used self-made tool”. (Or maybe I am just talking for myself.)

2026: Do! Not Buy.

One final reason to make this cable is that this is inline with this year’s (2026) assigned theme for my personal growth and improvement. This year’s theme is: “Do! Not Buy.” This means I am trying to focus on DO-ing more things to get to my goals, rather than BUY-ing things, that give the dopamine/illusion of progression. I am trying to build up my general skill-set experience, and simultaneously save money across the board. So make make make.

Tools and materials used

Tools:

  • snips
  • helping hands (Neilsen brand 240mm soldering aid pliers)
  • utility knife / precision knife
  • multimeter (Neoteck NTK098)
  • lighter
  • power-bank (Intempo EG0289MIX)
  • marker pen
  • nylon pry tool
  • soldering iron (Yihua 937D)
  • soldering iron wool cleaner

Materials:

  • [2x] crocodile clip jumper cables (black and red)
  • USB-A (power) cable
  • leaded solder
  • rosin solder flux
  • assorted heat shrink

PPE:

  • nitrile gloves
  • safety glasses

Build procedure summary

  1. insure that all relevant tools and materials are identified and within reach.
  2. acquire donor parts: USB-A to USB-C power cable and 2 crocodile jumper cables (AKA test leads).
  3. using snips cut off the USB plug that is not being used.
  4. using a utility knife slice down the outer insulation of the USB-A cable to expose the inner wires.
  5. using pry-tool: splay open and pull back the outer insulation, then pull out inner wires.
  6. using snips nip the insulation on the inner wires ~1cm in from the end then pull it off.
  7. twist each wire’s exposed copper strands into a tight braid.
  8. using snips cut off one side of each of the red and black crocodile test leads.
  9. using snips nip off around 1cm of the insulation of each test lead, and pull the insulation off.
  10. twist each wire’s exposed copper strands into a tight braid.
  11. plug the USB-A cable into a power-bank, and test voltage polarity of the wires using a multimeter.
  12. slide heat-shrink onto each individual wire, and onto the crocodile pair and USB-A outer cable.
  13. pair the crocodile clip wires (+/-) with their respective USB-A counterparts.
  14. wind the paired wires together into a mechanical bond (western union splice).
  15. using a soldering iron, leaded solder and solder flux – solder the western union splice.
  16. using a pair of snips: Neaten the splice profile. Remove any excess solder blobs or wire.
  17. cover the soldered splice with heat shrink then use lighter to tighten the shrink over the splice.
  18. repeat with the larger cable heat shrink to add protection and support to lead.
  19. inspect the created adaptor cable for any visual flaws.
  20. using multimeter test the outputs on the shaver, then mark them positive and negative on the device.
  21. using a power-bank, test the created cable by connecting it to the shaver.
  22. assuming success: discard waste materials from the job, and stow all tools and materials used.

Build procedure write-up

  1. Get, prepare, and test the parts.

Get a donor (known good) USB-A to USB-(irrelevant) cable. I used a random cheap power cable that came with a miscellaneous USB powered device. If you routinely buy USB powered devices, then you should have plenty of cables of this calibre on hand. As they seem to come boxed in as standard.

Cut off the irrelevant plug. Likely either a Micro-USB or USB-C plug. Then carefully slice down the outer insulation sheathing, and splay open the wires within. Unsheathe the insulation on the two wires within. If you used a data cable then they’d be more wires within. A typical USB-A to micro-USB cable contains four wires. Two power and two data wires. Typically colour coded as red (positive power), black (negative power), green and white (data +/-). Key word: typically. I recommend using a power-only cable: as they are both cheaper (to replace), and simpler to work on.

Regardless of what you have, the next step is to prep the wires and test the cable out. Splay out all the individual wires, then carefully snip the sheathing at about 1 cm down their length. Pinch this point with your finger nails and pull the insulation off. Repeat for all wires. Next use a multimeter test each wire to find the power positive and power negative. To verify the negative wire, test its continuity with the male USB-A plug’s outer metal. They are usually connected. Since this line is also typically used as a ground.

Alternatively test point the negative pin, once you have already identified the positive pin. Since it is its paired opposite. To test for positive power: plug the USB-A into a power bank, then using DC voltage mode on the multimeter test each cable until you came across something approximating +5 volts. Then do a continuity test from that wire to one of the two large edge pins within the USB-A male plug. This is the positive pin. With power positive and return identified, cut down and seal any other wires as they are not necessary.

Next prepare the crocodile clip jumper wires (or test leads as they are otherwise known). I like to use both a red and black cable to differentiate polarity. However you could alternatively just cut one test lead into 2 halves, and use both sides of it for the adaptor cable that we are making. Just have a way to mark the polarity of the otherwise identical clips. I chose to just use two differently coloured cables to save on confusion. I also have more of these cables then I need in the foreseeable future. So I had little reason to save on materials in that way. Using a pair of sharp snips, carefully nibble at each wire’s insulation at around the 1 cm from the tip of each wire. Then carefully pull the insulation off using finger nails.

  1. Setup inline heat-shrink!

This stage is the one easiest to overlook. I even forgot about it while writing this up – skipping straight to the splice segment. I have been in situations where I soldered a splice I was proud of – only to find out that I forgot to slide in some heat-shrink prior. And now facing a situation where I will have to either cut it open and start again; or just use tape to insulate the cable. Both are bad choices. There is a third choice but it involves a specialised tool: liquid insulation. You could paint the joint with liquid insulation providing that you have it to hand.

I actually made a mistake at this stage and that was that I did not employ enough heat-shrink. I used four pieces of heat-shrink. One to directly insulate each exposed copper line (yellow), one to bind the opened insulation of the USB cable (blue), and one to cover and bind the 2 crocodile lines and the yellow splice heat-shrink (red). This setup works fine. However it would have benefited from having one more large piece to cover the whole assembly.

With regards to choosing specific sizes of heat-shrink. I recommend purchasing a kit of assorted sizes, and use whichever fits the specific diameters of your wires at the time. This is because wires (in the wild) come in a myriad of non-standard sizes. (I.e. independently variable wire conductor, and wire insulation diameters.) Keep in mind that most cheap heat-shrink, shrinks to around half its default size. So size it to be snug, but leave room to allow for bumps. Sometimes you may even have to use short segments of shrink to cover just the conductor if the insulation on that wire is too thick to both snugly cover a wire’s thin conductor and bridge its fat insulation segments. This is especially true for cheap wires which skim on copper conductors, but employ a thicker insulation to give the impression of being a larger gauge wire than they are.

After doing this, then use a larger sized, longer piece of heat-shrink to cover the whole patch. This is to provide a strong protective layer for the joint. With my piece I failed to do this, thus leaving a hole into the layers of insulation which could be a path of ingress for dirt, dust, and other contaminates. I’ll just seal it with a little tape. (Not pictured.)

  1. Splice the wires together.

Next individually (and gently) twist all four wires exposed copper strands in a tight braid that resembles a solid core wire. Now pair up the wires. The positive end of the USB-A, with the end of the red crocodile clip wire. And negative with black crocodile.

Now twist the paired strands together using my splice of choice: the Western Union splice. This is done by making an “X” by crossing the 2 lengths of wire over each other. This should be done at a middle point for both wires. I will call the exposed copper of each wire between the intersection of the “X” and the rest of the wire the standing end, and the copper past the “X” the working end. Just like knot tying.

Carefully fold and twist one end of each wire’s working end over the other wire’s standing end. Repeat until the two wires are tightly twisted into each other. One tip, make sure that you are twisting the wires together in the same direction (counter/clockwise) as you twisted the individual wires themselves. This is so that they tighten, rather than loosen their structure when they are making the WU splice. Once the splice is complete: trim any excess that stands out. As this could cause an obstruction when applying heat-shrink. The sharp ends could also pierce holes in the heat-shrink once applied.

  1. Solder the splice.

Now that there is a strong mechanical (or physical) bond (or knot) connecting the two pairs of wires together. It is time to solder the connection. Making it permanent. When soldering I typically start by warming up and cleaning the iron. This is done by applying leaded solder and repeatedly dipping the iron into a metal mesh cleaner. Do this until all dark oxidation is removed, and the iron wicks solder readily. You could also apply rosin flux in this process to aid it. I personally just dip the hot iron into the flux dish as I go.

I mention this because in my opinion when it comes to soldering: preparation is of paramount importance to the successful execution of the task. Especially when using bog standard or subpar tools. As you can not rely on a tool of this quality to work readily despite poor conditions.

The actual soldering is easy enough. Apply flux to the wire joint. Then apply a little solder to the iron, enough that it adheres to iron without forming an unwieldy blob. Now line up a section of leaded solder wire to the joint. Then run the iron across the (fluxed) joint, while feeding the solder wire into the iron; and letting it melt and run into the wires of the WU splice.

Be careful to manage the heat that is put into the splice. Too little heat and the solder won’t take to the splice, too much heat and the insulation at either end of the splice will burn, melt, and curl back. Exposing more wire than desired. Perhaps more than the prepared heat-shrink could even cover. I have even had heat shrink that was placed too close to the joint shrink on me in situ. Before being positioned. So be cognisant of how much heat is actually put into the wires.

Now. Once the soldering is completed go over it with a pair of snips to remove any bumps, excessive solder blobs, or wire ends that the solder adhered to and exaggerated its profile.

  1. Apply the prepared heat-shrink.

Heat shrink should already be present on the wire at this stage. Slide it over the exposed segments then apply heat to activate it. Start with the smallest diameter segments to cover the exposed conductors, then move on to applying the larger bands that tidy and seal off the wires. Be careful not to accidentally apply any heat to heat-shrink that is not in place yet. As it will tighten and lock into place where ever it currently is. I used a simple disposable lighter for this. Alternatively you could use a heat gun or hot air rework station if you have one to hand. I KISS-ed this simple job. There was no need for anything more.

  1. Testing the hair clipper.

Before we go on. We need to gauge the status of the hair clipper. Specifically I needed to know the polarity of its two pins. To do this, just apply a multimeter across its pins. Set in an appropriate DC mode. Note the read out, then swap the probes with each other and test the pins again. Note this result.

If the result is positive. It means that the positive probe is on the positive pin; and if the result is negative, then it means that the negative probe is on the positive pin. Once the positive and negative pins have been identified: mark them on the device. This is to prevent accidentally reverse charging the clipper. Which risks damaging it, and/or the charging circuitry. (Powerbank, PSU, USB wall outlet, etcetera.)

  1. Cable test.

Test the finished cable. This involves a visual inspection. Does it look good? Fit for purpose? Is there anything notably broken on it? If it looks good; then perform a handling test. Pick it up, handle it roughly like you are actually using it without taking mindful tender care of it. Does it hold up to rough handling well? Or does it crack and fall apart? Better it breaks now, than in the moment when you need it.

Providing it passes (reasonable) rough handling. It is now time for an electrical test. I chose to use a powerbank as a power source. This is because it creates an isolated system. And limits any damage caused by short-circuits etcetera to just the created cable, clippers, and powerbank. Use a multimeter to verify polarity and electrical continuity.

  1. Final test.

With everything else worked out. Now is the time to plug it all in and see if the cable actually charges the hair clippers. Providing that the product passes this final testing. Then it is done. If it charges as expected from the power bank, then enough confidence in the cable is present for it to be plugged into a wall charger, to charge the clippers properly. Observe the first charge cycle for signs of heat build up, shorts, or any malfunctions. Otherwise: job done.

Acronyms used

AKA – Also Known As
ASAP – As Soon As Possible
CM – Centimetre
DC – Direct Current
DIY – Do It Yourself
IIRC – If I Remember Correctly
KISS – Keep It Simple Stupid
PSU – Power Supply Unit
USB-A/C – Universal Serial Bus (A type / C type)
WU – Western Union

Closing thoughts

A brief note on time. This little project was actually completed in June of 2025. This article is one of many that have been sitting in stasis for an extended time. It feels like I only did this a couple of months ago, however to my surprise, and according to the picture file names: they were taken in 2025-06. Only recently (2026-09) did I wrap up this article and make it publishable. This “wrap up”, included additional content that makes it relevant to 2026. Such as the incorporation of this year’s theme. Forgive me this deception.

With that out of the way, there is not much to say about this article or project that I haven’t already covered above. So let’s go for a more personal note. This cable was made out of junk I had on hand, and with a time limit. A family member lost the charger for the hair clippers and needed to trim their hair by Monday, it was the weekend IIRC. The point is that there was a time limit preventing the sourcing of a ready replacement. This is the perfect scenario where an electronics hobbyist should come in clutch with a DIY cable or what-have-you. (Akshully. This cable was made shortly after this time limit, I remember just charging the clippers using a bench PSU for an hour or two. But that is a less compelling story… Apocryphal story telling == More deception!)

The point is that these types of situations will emerge, they will come suddenly with little/no notice, and usually at an inconvenient time. So it pays to become accustomed to doing this type of work at the drop of a hat, and using whatever you happen to have on hand at the time. Such is the way of things. Keep in mind that a bodged solution is still a solution. Even if it only lasts as long as it takes to source a better quality replacement. As as long as it solves the problem in the moment it arises. Buying time in process. Then it is a success.

That being said the cable I created here is of decent quality, and will last as long as it is not abused, or misused. The only issue with it is that it doesn’t have the idiot-proofing; protecting the device from user error – that the original cable had. Due to the plug’s polarity keying preventing it from being inserted backwards. That’s my final point here, be cognisant of your creations’ weaknesses. And inform the user(s) of them, while also disclaiming any damages that may be caused by using the ad-hoc component that you provided. This is key to maintaining good customer relationships. From experience it often pays to overstate the risk. This is because it causes them to take active responsibility for employing it.

In the cable’s defence, as of 2026-09 I have noticed that it is still employed by my family member. More than a year after its creation. This is a genuine credit to its quality since they evidentially haven’t felt a need to replace it in the interim. How’s that for (real-world) feedback. 😀

Thank you for reading.

#0041: ReStory Repair Challenge

#0041: ReStory Repair Challenge

Preamble

With my leisure time I recently completed my first play-through of a video-game that came out this earlier this month (August 2026) named ReStory. In it you play as a repair technician in 2000’s Akihabara Tokyo Japan. Whose job it is to repair consumer electronics for the public. Including devices such as mobile phones, games consoles, electronic toys, and personal computers.

This inspired me to see if I can do this in real life. Can I – a crappy hobbyist repair tech actually manage to fix every item that is represented in this game?

The structure of the challenge I find appealing; a distinct and discrete list of consumer electronics to get through. No more, no less. I will even follow the game’s protagonist methodology of buying broken devices from the internet to then repair for resale (or shop decoration 😉 ).

official screenshot from Steam store showing player browsing online electronics store
official image taken from Steam store page

Technical notes

  • game name: “ReStory: Chill Electronics Repairs”
  • release date: 2026-08-06
  • game version: 1.0.013r
  • repairable devices: 29

ReStory Repair Challenge rules

Now that the fluff is out of the way. To the rules themselves:

1) To win the challenge one must repair every device featured in ReStory (v1.0).
1.a) There are 29 total devices across various categories, and they are listed below.
2) Alternative to repairing a faulty device: performing a full disassembly & reassembly of a working device counts as a successful repair.
3) Device substitutions can be made providing there is a good reason for it.
3.a) E.g. I have a near-enough device and don’t want to buy the specific device listed.
3.b) E.g. working on a Nintendo DS Lite, instead of an original Nintendo DS.
4) To consider a device completed, an article of the work must be published here, and linked below.

Device list

Note #1: ReStory is licenced to feature Atari products, so the names presented are official. The rest of the devices have either parody or generic names of their real world equivalent.

Note #2: These devices are organised according to ReStory’s categories. Even though they are not accurate to the nature of the devices.

Key: XX) Device Name (real world Device Name)

Games consoles (x12):

  1. Atari 2600 (Atari 2600)
  2. Atari CX40 (Atari CX40)
  3. Atari Lynx (Atari Lynx)
  4. BreadBox Joystick (Commodore 64 T-1341/C-1342 joystick)
  5. Brick Game (Brick Game)
  6. Eggotchi (Tamagotchi virtual pet)
  7. Game Duck (Nintendo Game Boy)
  8. Nony Playmachine (Sony PlayStation 1)
  9. Nony PMP (Sony PlayStation Portable 1000)
  10. Patento BS (Nintendo DS)
  11. Xi-box (2001 Xbox console)
  12. Xi-box controller (Xbox “Duke” controller)

Cell phones (x6):

  1. Autorolla Razor (Motorola Razr V3 Pink flip phone)
  2. Blueberry Curl (Blackberry Curve 8520) phone
  3. Pokia 3310 (Nokia 3310)
  4. Pokia Njoy (Nokia N-Gage phone)
  5. Simsons M65 (Siemens M65 phone)
  6. Wertu Signature (2002 Vertu Signature)

Music players (x2):

  1. Mapple Mypod (Apple iPod classic MP3 player)
  2. Nony Goman (Sony Walkman TPS-L2 tape player)

Cameras (x1):

  1. Palaloid (Polaroid Sun 635 SE)

Appliances (miscellaneous) (x7):

  1. Autorolla WT2000 (Motorola GP328 two-way radio)
  2. Guitar Legend (Guitar Hero controller)
  3. Nerdio W-91F (Casio F-91W wristwatch)
  4. Robby (Tekno/Teksta Robotic Puppy)
  5. Unicorp 99L (no-real world analog)
  6. Unicorp Kettle (no-real world analog)
  7. Unicorp Vision (no-real world analog)

Laptops (x1):

  1. IDM ThinkerDad (IBM ThinkPad 365XD laptop)

Progress tracker

Completed: 01/29

Games consoles (x12):

  1. nil
  2. nil
  3. nil
  4. nil
  5. nil
  6. nil
  7. nil
  8. nil
  9. nil
  10. nil
  11. nil
  12. #0013: Repair of a game controller with fatigued dome switches

Cell phones (x6):

  1. nil
  2. nil
  3. nil
  4. nil
  5. nil
  6. nil

Music players (x2):

  1. nil
  2. nil

Cameras (x1):

  1. nil

Appliances (miscellaneous) (x7):

  1. nil
  2. nil
  3. nil
  4. nil
  5. nil
  6. nil
  7. nil

Laptops (x1):

  1. nil

Commentary

This article is going to be updated slowly as the constituent articles are published and linked here. Additionally I do not intend to add more devices to this challenge, as ReStory updates – adding more content to their game. There is no explicit time limit to complete this challenge, however I would like it done by the end of 2028. Challenge start 21st August 2026. I will pin this article, as it is an ongoing project.

Thank you for reading.

Links, references, and further reading.

https://store.steampowered.com/app/3812600/ReStory_Chill_Electronics_Repairs

https://restory.wiki

#0040: 1 Day Challenge Article: My opinion on AI technologies

#0040: 1 Day Challenge Article: My opinion on AI technologies

NOTE: This article may have used AI, but was definitely written by an ape.

Preamble

I should state that I have not written anything in a while. Predominately I blame busyness. (It is the most common form of laziness after-all.) However perfectionism is also a solid secondary as to why my output here is so low. I have strangled many articles that I found 80% satisfactory. But I just couldn’t press publish because I knew that if I just put a little more effort into them they could be great. One more read through, and rewrite, one more supporting paragraph. One more edit to trim the fat. This all adds on and exhausts me to the point that the draft gets put on ice… Citing that: “I’ll do it when I have a little more time later.”

Well. This exercise is a way of trying to kill both birds with one stone. I want to give myself a solid deadline for making an article. 1 day. From start to finish. Initial notes, media collection, 1st draft, revision edit, and publish. All in a single day. The topic I have chosen for this 1 day article is… AI. More specifically I’d like to generally opine on what I think about AI. As a technology, as a business, and its effects on our lives and culture. It’ll be a rough and ready article.

So without further ado let’s begin.

What is AI? (Or rather what do I mean when I say AI?)

AI stands for Artificial Intelligence. However (thankfully) as of 2026 we don’t yet have a True AI. Id est: a real sentient or sapient intelligence. A self aware entity capable of reflection and personal growth. What we do have is various data manipulation models and scripts that we refer to as AI. Such as Large Language Models (LLMs), or chat bots (e.g. Personal Digital Assistants). I am not going to pretend to know more about this subject than I do – which is not much.

However I am familiar with using generative AI. AI models that create a novel output. Such as text, images, and various other media. As I understand this they do this by creating internal models by copying media that is fed to them. For example ChatGPT collects information by scraping websites then reconstituting that information and passing it to a chat bot which engages the user in conversation. That’s how I broadly understand it. So if you ask it for restaurant recommendations, it will scrape Yell and Google Reviews, then present that information in conversation to the user according to their criteria. E.g. location, food-type, budget, hygiene rating, etcetera.

I will primarily continue to use ChatGPT as an example use case of AI, as it is the one that I am most familiar with by a fair margin, and it is a good generalist that does a little bit of everything. It searches like Google Gemini, it can create images like Mid-journey, it could create code like Claude-code, and so forth. It is a Jack of all trades.

Is AI good for us?

Yes, but mostly no. Hear me out.

Information veracity and reliability

Firstly AI information output can not be implicitly trusted, and hence should not be used in a professional setting. Or any setting where liability may be an issue. ChatGPT warns users of its inherit unreliability within the chat box itself. Observe their disclaimer. “ChatGPT can make mistakes. Check important info.” Basically they wash their hands of any liability. How the user uses this information of dubious veracity is entirely up them. As are the consequences. In my opinion this means that AI can not be used for anything of deep importance. At least not as a stand alone source. Think looking up health symptoms, or asking for legal advice.

Why is AI provided information considered unreliable?

Two main reasons pop to mind. One is “AI Hallucinations”. This is were an AI agent would just spew out inaccurate information that it just made up whole cloth, or tried to bridge disparate datums with faulty assumptions. In the YouTube example video, the AI used by these users made up reference cases that either did not exist, or did exist but the AI misrepresented the context and case law that was illustrated in the specific named case. Watch the video.

The second reason why information provided from AI agents shouldn’t be implicitly trusted is to do with its source(s). Where does ChatGPT get its information from? The Internet. Is the internet filled with bad/inaccurate/malicious information? Yes. If it is present in volume, or in publications that the AI considers authoritative. Then is at a real risk of regurgitating the bad information to its users. AI can act like a magnifier for any bad info that is already in circulation. Such as information presented by ideologically captured (once prestigious) institutions, information in a main stream media circular source loop, or information that is in such volume that it could be considered Vox Populi. This is especially dangerous when it is presented by a vocal minority speaking on behalf of the majority across multiple locations online.

AI hallucinating case law references (etcetera.)


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bGn1SZuhTys

How to use AI even though the information is unreliable?

I do find it rather funny, because when I was in school I was told not to use Wikipedia.org as a reference for my essays. This is because it is not considered a reliable source; due to its core nature of compiling information from the public with little in the way of information discernment and validation. Wikipedia has the same weakness as modern AI. It draws its information from the public who are inherently unreliable, and from official (e.g. main stream media) sources who have been known to selectively report/omit information in order to push agendas/narratives, based on their political affiliations.

However both can be used constructively when researching a topic. To put it bluntly: they are both a good jumping on point. They are both good for an initial orientation on a subject. As long as you can read and compartmentalise the information provided, attaching a mental asterisks to the information to flag it. So that it is not integrated into one’s world view naively. I genuinely think that many if not most people do not have the ability to do this reliably. (Myself included.) We are too prone to cognitive biases, logical fallacies, first movers advantage… etcetera.

Additionally following Wikipedia’s listed sources is very useful for learning more about a given topic, and finding more authoritative sources on information. For example a book written by the author being studied. ChatGPT likewise can be asked to list its sources. Example prompt: “Can you list and summarise Kuji-In for me please. List sources. Prioritise books as a source.”

AI’s core methodology of replacing people

AI at its core is a technology designed to supplant and replace people. It is marketed to businesses as a way to replace staff. And save money by not having to pay their wages. At least initially, it seems as of 2026 the marketing has shifted tenor from “replacing” staff, to “augmenting” staff in order to increase productivity. Marketing bullshit. At the end of the day it has the same results. The technology’s presence lowers the need/demand for staff in general.

This means that it is fundamentally bad for the economy. As it causes job losses. Especially in the white collar office worker sector. Who are usually from an upper-working to middle class background. People who constitute the largest population of people with significant disposable income. This disposable income fuels the economies of the West, especially the UK. Which is primarily in the tertiary sector. And this demographic is the primary consumer base. Who buys the daily Starbucks/Costa coffee on the way to work every day? Who buys lunch every day? Who spends the most on restaurant food delivery? Or taxi services? Or is remodelling their house every 7th year, or replacing their cars every 5th?

Is it the once in a while purchases (assuming fiscally responsible) of the lower working class or underclass (benefits people), or is it the upper classes who aren’t in significant numbers enough to drive public consumption trends. No. It’s the exact demographic of people most affected/displaced by AI. There will be negative down stream to service workers and the tradesmen that service this demographic. Damaging the purchasing power of the core consumer bulk in a service economy country like the UK, will have significant negative fallout on all sectors and people.

AI’s frivolous use cases

Whenever I see AI being advertised to consumers. (Not businesses like above.) The use case always seems to be frivolous and largely unnecessary. many times it is designed to help the user avoid putting in any effort into their own life. Consider the example official advertisements that I have cherry picked here. Look at the situations where the consumer find themselves in, and how they use the AI to get out of it, as well as their conduct and mentality. The people featured seem like low quality trash people. They lie to the people around them, they are lazy, and they are irresponsible: often leaving things to the last minute. AI is being presented here as a tool to enable idiots. Just my opinion.

Also look at the ChatGPT ad of “You can just finish the work”, notice how it cuts the user out of the loop. There is great danger in allowing a computer to remove you from the process. It aggregates all the information in the files provided, creates a presentation for upper management, and sends it. All without user oversight. Just liability/blame if anything goes wrong. I wonder what could go wrong with that? It’s all too easy to show one’s arse with this over-reliance on automation. Building habits that enable complacency.

Look at the below adverts. All for AI personal agents. ChatGPT, Meta AI, Adobe Acrobat AI, and HP AI. All different companies. However the core use case is the same. Offloading cognitive labour from the user’s brain to the machine. What people don’t realise about short cuts, is that they ultimately harm you more than they help. Offloading cognitive labour, enables laziness and is an opportunity lost at learning (and hence growing). This tech is a crutch, that will guarantee that the patient will never walk straight again.

“You can just finish the work” ChatGPT advert


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-vvGAKtV_Ek

Signing off on work that you did not review. What could go wrong?

Your personal AI. The new Meta AI app.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2l_2k5KrXmo

Call your wife, control your cat, change tanks idiot.

Meet Kat Dennings’s newest personal assistant, Acrobat AI Assistant


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xh2nsY9tQzs

Lie to your colleagues about work, and irresponsibly sign contracts base on summaries.

HP AI Companion


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qL7kr1ckgDE

Can’t be bothered to read the reference materials, yet somehow can write loads base off of a summary.

AI and Privacy

I know that the modern man seriously does not care a lick about their own privacy. Often citing a defeatist rhetoric to justify their inaction, or active participation against their best interests in this manner. However I would feel remiss if I did not state the privacy concerns regarding AI.

One. People tell these things way too much private/personal information. Thinking that these machines are a black box, where nothing dropped into it will ever comeback to them. What people don’t realise (or perhaps do but don’t care) is that the box has a hatch that opens up at the back. And its technicians and owners see all via that hatch. Now you have strangers holding your private, personal, or otherwise sensitive information. People don’t appreciate the leverage that the masters of the tool now have over the users that do these things. At the very least, it could be used for highly effective targeted advertisement, or selling the data to third parties.

Above refers to service like ChatGPT the phone app, or website. Positions where the data they have is the data that users gave them via prompts. However AI that has complete access to user’s OSes, completely compromises the entire PC. From a security standpoint. This one really shivered my timbers. Who the fuck would give another person (or their agent) complete access to their private computer?

I can envision a situation where a machine sifting through a user’s files for a task: finds a media files that it flags as illegal for whatever reason. Then due to mandatory reporting policy – one in the EULA that the user didn’t read – reports the user to the authorities. Suddenly police are in your home, your PC is being seized, and reports are being made. All over what could amount to nothing. Cartoonishly extreme I know, but not outside the realm of real possibility. A more mundane example would be that the AI attaches private files to emails, shared projects, or correspondence that you may have wished it did not. It is a security risk in this regard.

ChatGPT can now complete tasks on your computer


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dB6pOolO7io

What is Microsoft 365 Copilot and how to use it | Microsoft


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zqH-HtQbaeU

AI damaging its own ecosystem

This isn’t an environmental complaint, although there are plenty of those in regards to data centres, electricity consumption, and water use. I am not knowledgable, nor interested enough to talk on that. This is about the information ecosystem.

I would like to put forth the idea that AI products act as parasites. Hurting the very host they need to live. The specific AI product I want to example are AI summaries built into search engines. Like Google, and DuckDuckGo. (Note: I was surprised that Bing and Yahoo did not have AI search summaries.) Consider what an AI search engine summary actually does. It scrapes the information from third party websites to then present it to the user in an edited and easily digestible format. This process completely usurps the actual NEED for the user to visit the source websites themselves. This means that the user is satisfied without visiting and patronising the underlying websites from which the information was sourced. Usually by seeing third party adverts on these sites. This results in the business of running a website becoming less profitable, and even less viable.

Meaning that the presence of the AI summary actively damages the source that it itself uses to function. Like a parasite leaching off of a host. If the parasite gets strong enough or numerous enough it could even kill the host. Which would quickly cause the parasite to starve to death (assuming it couldn’t locate a new host). These AI summaries actively starve the very websites they use for information from the funding that keeps them alive. This means that the number and quality of source websites will diminish as AI summary use expands. A true example of the enshitification of the Internet.

Who is to blame for this? Is is the avaricious corporation, or the lazy convenience-addicted habitual path-of-least-resistance walking consumer? Why not both? My point is that the core financial incentive for people to put good information on the Internet, is actively damaged by the AI search summary tool. Which needs that good information to be of any use at all. It’s actually a sad situation. A starving snake eating its own tail out of necessity. Or maybe a better analogy would be a farmer who poison his own land by driving a leaking harvester.

I’ve herd people advocate for the idea of a revenue share with the source websites to offset this market usurpation. And it might work. Maybe if companies all of a sudden decide that they care about the future, and not about short term quarterly returns for shareholders. Unfortunately they are simply not structured in a way where they are incentivised to care about the future in any real respect. Obviously this is just my opinion on this.

Is AI a business fad?

I will say little on this for risk of really showing my ignorance. What I will say is that I have seen many people compare the “AI bubble” to the “Dot-COM bubble”. Apparently in the early 2000s there was a fad where every major business felt the need to incorporate web services into their business regardless of whether it made sense for them personally, or not. It was predominantly done to acquire share holder funds, by projecting the image of a forward thinking and growing business. Regardless of whether or not the website services that they advertised to prospective share holders actually had any value within them. I think the actual dot-com bubble was about primarily web businesses that did nothing but suck up share holder money, that is until the jig was upped.

I see an analogue in AI technologies today. It seems like every company in the technology sector has AI services which they advertise proudly. Regardless of use or relevance to their primary business model. And even outside of the tech sector, every other large corporation has some kind of AI service available — many of which are useless. Just there to tell prospective shareholders that your business has a foot in AI. And hence are a modern, forward looking, and growing company. It’s all surface level appearance based marketing to make their business more appealing to the cursory inspections of shareholders.

Is AI a bubble?

As a roll on from the fad conversation, I want to briefly discuss the future of the AI from a business prospective. I have heard rumblings of an AI bubble bursting. Once the naive investor money dries up that is. This is because AI products are largely not profitable. Id Est: they do not make more money, than they cost to develop and run day-to-day. In addition I have see an image circulating around the internet of how incestuous the funding actually is with big-tech companies and AI. Observe below. This implies that the money input (from outside sources) is fading, and instead companies are playing a game of hot-potato with debt and circular funding. A game that will eventually fail once one company defaults on a loan. Which would then cause a domino effect; that could then cause the collapse of the entire sector as a consequence.

The 7 Trillion AI Gamble Is Failing. Big Tech is TRAPPED Right NOW.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OunJtLnyPT4

AI Bubble: Nvidia is looking desperate as circular financing gets dangerous | Ed Zitron


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_1vSlv32MWo

AI and social media

This is where I will throw around the term “Dead Internet Theory”. It is a theory that human users are becoming rarer and rarer on the Internet to the point that we could be drowned out by machines in the near future if we haven’t been so already. Bots communicating with bots en-masse. I personally think that it is not the case, at least not yet. However the presence of machines on the Internet is no longer something that could be denied.

Consider the YouTube comments sections. How many of those comments are from actual people? I have seen many that are obviously a chain of bot accounts replaying to each other trying to sell a product. Be it some no-name’s course, or a random shit-coin that someone wants to pump, or just some scammer’s Whatsapp. These comment chains usually come in the format of a comment that is tangentially related to the video content, that then mentions its product in passing, or asks for a solution. Then followed by reply accounts saying something like X product/service really helped me. Etcetera.

The scam adverting bots are easy to identify. However ones that are not are the political narrative bots. Let me ask you a question. Say that you are watching a politically divisive video. Then you scroll down to the comments section. How do you tell the difference between a bot and an NPC. A bot designed to mindlessly rattle off from a prescribed script. Compared to a human who is a tribally captured useful idiot online, rattling out buzz words, slogans, talking points, and rhetoric, as well as regurgitating statistics that they half remember from tribal sources. How do you tell the difference between a machine reading from a script, and a person reciting dogma? I personally don’t know. What I do see is the sheer volume of vitriol, or dare I say the word: “misinformation” on certain topics by suspect accounts.

“You are not immune to propaganda”


https://www.youtube.com/shorts/KzjHNSRgHJ8

What makes an account suspect of being a bot?

Account age, geographic location, topic under discussion, and account username formatting. That is typically what sets off flags for me. Say all the people with very strong opinions are all new accounts, with no history on the platform. Now consider that all the accounts are from areas known for having bot farms such as China or India. All commenting on a video exclusively discussing US politics. Perhaps the topic under discussing has political relevance/significance to either a national power, or group of interest who would have the resources and would benefit from shaping online discourse/discussion on the topic. And finally bot accounts tend to be made using scripts, hence they will typically have a rhyme and reason to them. A pattern, or template that they all use. For example “john-smith-8783hukhfs”. First name, hyphen, second name, followed by a random string of numbers and letters. There is no hard rules for spotting bots, it’s more of a loose criteria that increases classification confidence. Like I said earlier, it is very difficult to tell the difference between a brainless machine, and a genuine living idiot. Both are incapable of independent thinking.

Bots in the YouTube comments sections example images

(check the full size files linked at the bottom of the article)

AI, culture, marketing, and public opinion

In my view the public opinion of AI has soured across the board. With people becoming increasingly more aware of all the negative affects of AI. Exaggerated or otherwise, a cloud is gathering around the perception of AI in general. Everything from job losses, increased wealth disparity, shrinking middle-class, loss of privacy, increased sophistication of surveillance methods and software – such as facial recognition, to increased RAM and GPU costs. The blame of which is being placed at the feet of AI.

Then add to that the AI tools that actively hurt the ecosystems that they draw from such as image creation tools that use artists work to create their own renders, only to then compete with them for customers. This sentiment is especially pronounced in nerd spaces. I often see YT videos denouncing any AI use, and pointing out AI channels as inferior in quality as well as morally. AI channels are often portrayed as artistically bankrupt thieves in these circles. And within the documentary space, they are known to be rife with unchecked misinformation and historical/factual errors.

Now from the customers perspective AI products are often looked upon as being of inferior quality. Hence use of terms such as “AI slop”. Poor quality videos whose target audience are gullible, easy to dupe people. Such as AI posts on Facebook for older audiences who may lack the discernment to identify and dismiss them. Consider the reactions to large corporations when they produce AI adverts, it genuinely hurts their reputation. At least in the short term — although it could be a storm in a teacup. Genuinely hard to tell with online outrage.

Big company AI adverts that have hurt their reputations


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yy6fByUmPuE


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eWnP9f-ceqE

AI and technical debt

I see AI tools that create code and honestly I have never seen the purpose of these. Outside of hobbyist artists who want to create a video-game while avoiding the technical side of the creation. For example a visual novel game, or a narratively driven walking simulator. For serious companies/businesses I see little reason for them to use code generation tools, because they create as many problems as they solve. what is the reason a company would want products made by a machine with no oversight. With no one in the company who has intimate knowledge of the product. Hence incurring a huge degree of technical debt making the business dependant on the AI product/service. Because without it, they’d have to fight with an undocumented code-base that is alien in formatting, styling, and structure. And the bigger the codebase, the deeper the hole. The more AI is used the more AI needs to be used to keep the cobbled together boat afloat long enough to ship deliverables.

AI personal use

I am running out of time here so I have to move on. I want to discuss AI in my life. How I use it. I use ChatGPT, Duck.AI (which uses ChatGPT), and that’s about it. The funny thing is that I have not paid a penny to use these services. Typically I either use ChatGPT as a search engine, a first call for finding information quickly. Or I use it as for basic image generation.

Yes. Gasp! Despite all the moral grandstanding that it may have seemed like I was taking up against AI use in general; I use AI every day… I just don’t value it enough to pay for it. All my use cases are rather shallow, I either use it to search and sum things up, usually things of low stakes. Or I use it to generate images for my Dungeons and Dragons campaign — something that I would not pay money for. For example commission artwork. AI use in my opinion is in a similar vein to piracy. It is not theft, not does it represent a loss of a legitimate sale. A pirate is not a lost customer. Nor is a pirate a thief. A pirate is a pirate.

I use a free ChatGPT account. Which gives around 3 free image generations a day before it paywalls me. It took around 7 to 11 generations to create a Myconid Warrior wielding Soul Edge (From “Soul Calibur 2”), and a poisoned boomerang. This was done over days because the thing kept generating it wrong. Adding in details that I did not stipulate, or taking away things that I did state on an earlier iteration. It is an annoying process, and one has to learn to accept something that is 70% good-enough, rather than wasting time, energy, and tokens, additionally prompting for decreased returns.

Look at the image of the Myconid Warrior. It took several iterations to get the sword to not be held upside-down in it’s hand. I even had to create a mock up reference image for it to use as a template. I just don’t see a reason to give them any money. Additionally if ChatGPT went away, or terminated this service. Then I would just use another free image creation to make these reference images. And if they went away too (likely because they used ChatGPT under the bonnet), then I would do without. Using official artwork or random Google images to illustrate what I am describing to my players. It is not a big loss. I think I will elaborate more on this in a dedicated article, when I do I will link it below.

Acronyms used

AI – Artificial Intelligence
ChatGPT – Chat Generative Pre-trained Transformer
EULA – End User Licence Agreement
GPU – Graphics Processing Unit
HP AI – Hewlett-Packard AI
LLMs – Large Language Models
NPC – Non Player Character
OS – Operating System
PC – Personal Computer
RAM – Random Access Memory
US – United States
YT – YouTube

Closing thoughts

I am wrapping this article up as of 18:50 2026-08-15. Considering that I started this challenge at 14:00 on 2026-08-14. Already past midday for a 1-day challenge… It is safe to say that this challenge has been failed. Initial writing of article 1st draft at 12:00 2026-08-15 and published 22:16. However failed successfully. I do have an article done. Only it is a day late, and a dollar short.

This isn’t my greatest work I’ll admit. However it has revelled to me how little I actually know about this subject. Any one of the subject paragraphs above could be expanded into an essay of their own. With an equal exertion of research (an time) necessary. However this article has broadly outlined my current understanding of AI in general, as well as demonstrated my attitude towards the technology… Reading it back: I may actually be an AI Luddite. I seem to have the general depth of knowledge of a Luddite. The lack of differentiation between different technologies illustrates this well. It’s all AI baby — especially the tech that isn’t. 😉

Anyway. I’ll leave you with a relevant quote.

“I would have written a shorter letter, but I did not have the time.” – Blaise Pascal

Thank you for reading.

Links, references, files, and further reading

Personal Blog: Entry 2025-01-18 – 2025 Year-end review and 2026 New Years resolution

Personal Blog: Entry 2025-01-18 – 2025 Year-end Review and 2026 New Years Resolution

Preamble

Another year has come and gone, and with that: it is time to reflect upon it. What I did well, and what I did not. How I handled life’s challenges, and what decisions did I make within them and why? I have written a private end-of-year personal review document for this purpose. This is not that. This document is an extension of that one however, albeit only pertaining to project work. (I.e. hobby activities.)

A brief on Tinkerer’s Blog activities within 2025

As far as this website is concerned I did very little during the 2025 year. I do not believe this is the actual case. However it is true that I have very little to show here for that year. Just two personal blog posts, not even articles. One personal log entry in February in a similar vein to this document: a reflection on project progress. And the other entry consisted of another personal log. One pertaining to witnessing the March 29th partial solar eclipse. All in all. Not much.

Needless to say I have failed my 2025 goal of posting 12 articles. I believe this failure is due to a combination of factors. The main is simple busyness: I have been working 6 day, 60 hour weeks for a lot more than expected this year. It really helped with my monetary goals. However the time loss had an opportunity cost for every other goal. That’s my plausible excuse out of the way. Heck. Its not even really a good one, once critically examined. As unproductive busyness can be considered a form of laziness. This is because it enables procrastination. The postponement of difficult yet important tasks.

Now for the real reason for my failure. Discipline. I have been undisciplined with the time that I did have. Evidentially I didn’t have time for productive tasks, yet I had time for mindless recreation. Like playing videogames or vegetating in front of the television (YouTube) after a day’s work. I think I fell into the bad habit of putting off project work to the weekend. This weekend unfortunately is within the mystical future that never comes. Because come the weekend (usually just Sunday): there’d be another excuse for not working. Usually it comes in the form of the 3 perpetuals that I mentioned briefly here before. Time, Money, and Energy. Add head-space to that. Although I guess that’s a type of energy. Alongside: brain plasticity, mood, sleep, etcetera…

Article link: personal_blog_entry_2025_02_22

Going forward into 2026

Somewhere along the way I started stating themes for my years. A theme is something that encapsulates my general attitude for the year. It governs my general modus operandi and orients me (and my actions) towards my top two to three objectives. If not only number one. Last year’s theme was “Grind Gold”. Like in videogames. I wanted to expand my wealth by improving my primary income, adding an auxiliary income, as well as gaining knowledge of money in order to be a better custodian of the resource. So focus on money first and foremost.

With this theme I volunteered for overtime whenever it came up. Which (un)fortunately happened considerably more than expected. Especially when I became known at work as ‘the guy who does overtime on short notice’ guy. Additionally, I setup my eBay shop to declutter and liquidate value. And listened to many (many) financial audiobooks while at work. I learned a lot, the most important being how ignorant I am on the subject of proper money management. For example I opened my first brokerage account in 2024 at the tender age of mid-thirties. To this day I still haven’t learnt to utilise the trading functionalities available, other than the absolute basics. So there is still much work to be done in 2026 for this goal.

2026 theme: “Do! Not Buy.”

2026’s theme is “Do” as in “do things, not buy things” in order to progress. I bought a lot of unnecessary stuff in the year of 2025. Much of it was for projects that I intended to do later. And before I knew it I ran out of “later”, and the year concluded. As it is I am buried in materials (and just a sheer crap-load of things) that are awaiting being used in projects. Resources that could’ve otherwise stayed liquid as money and furthered my pursuit of wealth. Not to mention give me more living space.

I have given much thought to my actions in this regard; this is in order to understand why I do the things I do (or did). I bought a lot of materials for projects that I never got around to doing. Why? I think its because it made me feel like I was legitimately progressing along these projects. It was a cheap (effort wise) way to literally buy the positive feeling of progress. Accomplishment. However it is ultimately farcical. Because the moment labour-effort was necessary to keep the project going: the project’s relevance in my day-to-day life suddenly faded. And the next project became what I was enamoured with. Complete with a new (novel and exciting) shopping list of materials. I was essentially hobby hopping on a smaller scale.

A summary on my 2025 purchases (i.e. the roll of shame)

In December 2024 to January 2025 I bought lots of camping gear and bicycle parts. Taking advantage of the January price slumps and deals. Also my new year’s zeal for the outdoors. February consisted of philosophy and chess books. Which I did not read. In March and April: I bought a (spares & repair) Tassimo Vivy 2 pod coffee machine, as well as £50 in pods, £50 in reusable pods (for myself and the household), and an extra broken machine to part out. Which I did fix, and use, and wrote 2 good articles on. One on repairing the machine, and the other on creating Americano drinks from espresso pods. Did not publish either.

May purchases consisted of more books. This time on religion, Stoicism, and a Dostoevsky box-set. Equally unread. Tool kits for working on mobile phones. I believe my Blackview A100 decided to break around now. Still broken. I also purchased a lot of first aid materials for the household as well as cases and boxes to stow them in. Got the prepper itch, and felt “unprepared”.

June I discovered an interest in better coffee. This was prompted by running out of Tassimo pods, coupled with an unwillingness to buy more expensive single-use landfill. Started watching James Hoffmann (amongst others) on YouTube. And consequently purchased a fancy grinder (£100 KinGrinder K6), pour over kettle, and drip coffee set. I have yet to use the pour over equipment, as I only use the grinder and a thermal French press. Still success. Also more books: this time a Friedrich Nietzsche box-set and several Albert Camus books. Introduced to me by watching YouTube channel “Unsolicited Advice”. Unread.

July to August: I bought multiple (cheap) solar charge controllers. Used them for making use of the large 250W solar panel I purchased the year before. Multiple USB plug kits for fashioning and repairing data cables. Two different screwdriver kits, because I just wanted them. RCD plugs, plural. Oh, and LEGO. LEGO friends sets: Mia and Olivia’s tree-house, as well as some LEGO city bundles. Stuff for the game that I was working on at the time called Toy Tactics. A basic tabletop tactics game that uses toys that the child already owns as units/pieces. It was designed as a gateway drug to tabletop games like Warhammer 40K. Unfinished.

September October. I bought parts and accessories to repair an air fryer. Fixed! Then broke again a week later. I bought plenty of Raspberry Pi stuff. Multiple computers for different tasks that I envisioned. A retro games console, a Pi-hole, a seed box, a stack of Pi’s functioning as a single “supercomputer”, etcetera. As well as various necessary accessories for them. Pi camera, micro-SD cards, micro-HDMI adapter, etcetera. I also bought a £300 E-ink monitor because the opportunity arised to get one at such a bargain price. Didn’t use any of the RPi stuff; my interest waned. Nor the monitor; as I bought it for programming and reading — and I didn’t do much of either this year. Also more LEGO, although this time it was robot sets. Two older LEGO Mindstorms NXT boxes at £40 quid a pop.

Finally November December. Here I continued the robot theme by buying accessories that allows a Raspberry Pi to interface with the LEGO Mindstorms peripherals. As well as around 10 PlayStation 2 games (for the collection). More LEGO in the form of a set of Bohrok Va (for the collection). More RPi/microcontroller peripheral boards (wanted to learn about I2C and SPI). Books (plural) on computers (found a bargain – not read). An RPi kit called the Pimoroni Scroll Bot. Got it cheap in an auction. Haven’t opened it to date. And finally a joblot of broken Casio watches and a used working unit for spares. Untouched.

Well. That was 2025. (Albeit somewhat inaccurate time-wise.) A year of mimetic desire, lifestyle cope spending, and opportunist purchases. To break that cycle I have a rule for 2026. And that is to only buy what is strictly necessary. So no more whimsical purchases fuelled by a temporary mimetic interest. Monkey see, monkey want. No book purchases either! I have a huge backlog, and one of this year’s goals is to get a library card. I want to become a book reader, not stay a book buyer. A card will help the transition along, as I can just borrow any book that catches my interest instead of buying it. Additionally the two week borrow window will incentivise actually reading the damn thing. Real deadlines tend to incentivise action like nothing else.

While I am mentioning ‘huge backlogs’: no new Steam game purchases also. I mean I write this as I am tempted to buy an ant based RTS game called “Empires of the Undergrowth”. Guess why? Watching another Youtuber. This time it’s my favourite Civ 5 Pole: Marbozir. I do not need any new computer games, I literally have hundreds available to me, and not time for them.

Going into 2026

Going forwards I have a significantly stricter budget than the previous year’s. This is to stop the silliness of these needless dopamine purchases. And to save the money for more fruitful endeavours. And considering how much crap I bought last year: I have more than enough for this year’s projects (and entertainment), and then some. I have one exception where I can purchase for a project – and that is that it has to be for an active project. The device is on my workbench and needs to get done ASAP. In addition to fitting into the budget. It can’t be for something fun that I want to work on a little “later”. Maybe this weekend. I have seen where that leads.

Do things, do not buy things.

That’s all well and good. Its a nice sentiment. However how will it actually be enacted in real life? Well, its via the day-to-day decision making. Do X, over buying Y. This is something that I have already taken on; as my mentality has changed on how I approach project/hobby work. The change coming from a keen awareness of all the wasteful spending of 2025 on projects that went nowhere.

I’ll give you two examples. A trivial case of doing X over buying Y is that I was going to buy a new calendar. Instead of dropping £2.50 to £9.99 on a calendar for my room; I opted to look online, print a free one off, and use that instead. See it’s the small day-to-day moment-to-moment decisions that matter here. Not an ideal that never really makes it’s way to daily life. Its a small effort, its trivial, but its also a single step of genuine progress.

Now the second example. I am still planning on cobbling together a working watch from the Casio spares and repairs joblot that I have. Then later doing more invasive watch mods. Think backlight LED swaps and LCD tints. However I need some specialised tools for working with watches. Things like a mini-forked pry-tool to remove the watch straps’ spring-bar (without damaging anything); and to a lesser extend other tools such as a jeweler’s hammer and pin to remove a metal strap’s link bars; or the various jigs to hold the watch parts secure.

The kit I was leaning into buying was going for £12 and had everything that I would need going forwards. However strictly speaking: I did not actually need this kit. Although it does look cool. And right now – not the mods that I’d like to do in the future – right now I do not need it to get done what I need to get done. A simple strap replacement, partial disassembly, internal cleaning, and battery replacement. And since I am not sure when (if ever) I will get round to doing the more involved mods which will require these specialised tools – I can’t justify their purchase as an honest need (right now), since I do not need them to get this immediate project finished.

Additionally my current eclectic mix of tools can be cobbled together to form a decent substitute kit. I could even go further and modify some cheap tools to specialise them for working on watches. For example sharpening a nylon plastic pry-tool – one of many I own – to make it thinner, then cut a notch into it to allow it to better encompass the watch straps’ spring-bar.

See I am trying to change my mentality from going to the store as my default primary action, to going to my store. And seeing how I can get done what I want to get done, using the resources I already have. In gaming terms, this would be min-maxing my resources. Getting the most out of what I already have. And it is only when my resources/tooling is insufficient for a given task, should I buy more.

What to expect on Tinkerer’s Blog come 2026

Lots of smaller one-session projects. Projects from my backlog. That are done and 80% written up. I am taking making pixel-art more seriously this year. Look at the title image. That is my base line ability as of today. I wonder where I will be for the 2027 post? And some programming stuff. I need to brush up on Python and C++ in order to make use of all the computers I am sitting on. Then some robotics projects. If I am shooting for the stars: they’ll even be the occasional book review. That’s the plan anyway. Y’know what they say about plans: they never survive first contact with the enemy. Anyway, consider this post 1 of 12 done for 2026.

Thank you for reading. You’ve officially read more than I have this year. 😉

Acronyms used

ASAP – As Soon As Possible
HDMI – High-Definition Multimedia Interface
I2C – Inter-Integrated Circuit
LED – Light-Emitting Diode
LCD – Liquid-Crystal Display
RCD – Residual Current Device
RPi – Raspberry Pi (a single board computer)
RTS – Real-Time Strategy (game genre)
SD card – Secure Digital card
SPI – Serial Peripheral Interface

Links, sources, references, and further reading

Personal Blog: Entry 2025-02-22 – project review and goals

Personal Blog: Entry 2025-02-22 – project review and goals

It has been a while since I have posted anything on here. I have left this website dormant for quite a bit. Specifically it has been around 22 months since I last uploaded a post here. Yes, 22 months. That’s two months shy of TWO years! That last post is namely “#0038 – Demonstration of chess game data featured in Cowboy Bebop anime” published on 2023-04-16. Fuck me. And even before that I only posted one more in 2023, number #37 in 2023-02-26. Then another year long break until I was posting at reasonable rate. So early 2022, and backwards.

A number of things have come up in life to cause this. Primarily working full time 50 hour weeks, in addition to dealing with the miscellaneous duties and responsibilities of life. One’s that put a significant claim on our resources as individuals. However I would be remiss in blaming busyness for this failure. I have had the time. I could have put in a single hour a week easily, and that would’ve netted me around 88 total working hours for the 22 month absence. More than enough to get a few quality posts out.

Now, I am mindful of the triumvirate of endlessly employable excuses. In format they are: Time, Money, and Energy. When one fails, the other two could be employed to enable procrastination and laziness. Even in cases where two fail, one will always be there ready and willing to excuse one’s bad behaviour. Consider if someone pins you to the wall on an excuse, and it becomes apparent that you both have the money, and time to do something good for you. The excuse of not having energy is ready and willing to take up the mantle.

Realistically the past couple of years have been busy for me. However having said that, it should be noted that I am aware that busyness is actually a form of laziness. People (such as myself) use being busy as a way to excuse not doing important things. And posting here is important to me. Not that much admittedly, but it is. Rank 5-ish. I should have done more. The funny thing is, its not like I have been abdicating entirely from participating in this hobby.

Over the last couple of years I have done a lot of stuff on the more practical side. I just have neglected to document them here. Off the top of my head: I have Assembled 2 different Outsunny brand metal garden sheds, replaced a shower bar, built a functioning gaming PC from scrap, repaired and analysed a light switch, repaired a washing machine twice (2 different faults), repaired 2 desk fans, etcetera, etcetera. “Blah blah blah, yackity schmakity.” – Hugh Tazmanian Devil.

I think the main reason why I haven’t posted as much is because it often takes more effort to document and write about any given project in a meaningful manner, than it is to actually just get it done. So very often in the moment I intend to do the write up later. (Yes indeed, that fabled “later” that never comes.) But after another work week, once the weekend winds around again often my mind has moved onto the next project. Now two years later, due to my lack of diligence in managing passwords, it has resulted in data loss. Meaning that I have lost pictures of projects that I need for articles. Oh well. Ce la vie. Move on.

A lot of my failings in the past (in relation to this hobby): has not just come from simple laziness, it has also come from the dark side of perfectionism. As I write this I have currently on my computer 33 half-to-almost finished projects. Some folders just contain pictures and videos from the practical, whereas most contain write ups. Being a drafted article, with supporting notes and reference documents.

So I have been working. It’s just for some reason or another I have been consistently dropping out at around the 80% mark. The writing and refining stage of these projects. I think it is because I enjoy the practicals, so there is little discipline needed to do them. However when it comes to technical writing it is easy to get stressed and overwhelmed trying to create something of value to someone. It is too easy to fall into the granularity trap with regards to documenting details. Then get stressed and take a ‘small’ break. Then not come back to it because time ran out and I have work in the morning. It’s a problem I am going to have to judiciously navigate because I do not have an easy answer for it.

Here is one answer I have for my perfectionism. Finish what you start. Sounds obvious eh? No I mean in a single sitting. When you start drafting a section of an article, take the time (in that sitting) to finish it. I am going to do that here. I am writing this blog post in a single sitting. Rereading it for clarity, then publishing it. I am not going to take breaks and work on it over multiple sitting over multiple days. Which would be likely weekend days because I seldom work on this stuff during the work week. A known issue. Start, stop, start, stop. No momentum.

Moving forward, I intend to have published at least 10 articles this year. Yes, considering it is at February’s end now. I need to publish one article every month at a minimum to meet this requirement. It’s not too much considering that I have a large backlog of half finished projects I could cap off and publish. Additionally this dovetails nicely with another new year’s resolution, something else that I am falling behind on. Namely, it is to read 10 (serious) books. This means 10 non-fiction books. After reading each book I will provide a summary of it’s content here. Not a review by any means, more of a brief on the book and it’s teachings as I understand them. I am not going to count these “book review” (yes yes I know) entries towards the 10 post goal. However their addition will make me more actively engaged with managing this website and it’s content.

Well that’s that. Gone awhile, and now I am back. Back again. Tell a friend. Time to put my nose to the grindstone, and hit the books. T-minus 10 months.

One last note before I go. Perfectionism is kicking in right now: as I look to copy this text into the browser. I have made my point here, and communicated my thoughts effectively. However it could be better, much better. Could I just post this? Or would I be better off reading and re-reading it. Then editing it down to get it just right. To make it read better, and to to catch all those pesky grammatical errors: sitting in this text like a hidden object game. Well. Two years of unpublished articles on my desktop say otherwise. Perfect is the enemy of done. And I am done. Print.

Thank you for reading.

Links, references, further reading

  • Image “Hugh_210x240” sourced from https://looneytunes.fandom.com/wiki/Hugh

#0038: Demonstration of chess game data featured in Cowboy Bebop anime

#0038: Demonstration of chess game data featured in Cowboy Bebop anime

Preamble

I have been playing a fair bit of chess recently. I even went so far as to buy and start reading books on the subject. (gasp I know, first “buy”, then “read”. Must be one of those mundane everyday miracles I keep hearing about.) Anyway, as I did: it reminded me of a particular episode of an anime that I absolutely loved watching as a teen. Namely: Cowboy bebop.

Created by a Japanese company called Sunrise Inc. Cowboy Bebop is an anime that is generally highly regarded on the internet to this day (2023). Even though it originally aired in Japan in 1998. 25 years ago. Part of the reason for this in my opinion: is the sheer attention to detail, and artistic care of craft displayed within each episode. Something I will hopefully demonstrate here.

As a show: Cowboy Bebop has primarily an episodic structure. Where each individual episode features a self contained story with a start, middle, and end. That then contiguously fits into a larger narrative that runs across the season. With few exceptions such as the odd multi-episode narrative, or recap episode. The focus of this article is episode 14: Bohemian Rhapsody. A chess themed episode where I found the move-set for a full game of chess.

I wish to display that game here for your viewing pleasure. Please note however that I am no chess expert (as I am barely competent), so I will not comment on the game itself. I just want to feature it here because I think it’s really cool; that an anime would have such attention to detail as to feature things such as a complete game of chess. One that briefly scrolls across the screen for less than a handful of seconds no less. [See video extract below.]

Tools

Since this is not a tutorial piece I will be brief here. I just wish to outline the tools used to make the chess game demonstration GIF image and video extracts below for those interested.

  • XBoard – to play the game move-set out on, in a Linux based OS
  • Native Screenshot application of Linux Mint Cinnamon – to take screenshots of XBoard
  • GIMP – to edit images for the GIF animation
  • imagemagick – to convert a series of PNG files into a single animated GIF file
  • VLC – to play videos
  • Flowblade – to edit and export videos in MP4 format

Episode narrative background

Please note: this is primarily from memory, so I may have some of the details askew.

The cartoon villain of the week featured in this episode is a character by the name of “Chess Master Hex”. A child chess prodigy who whilst working for a large corporation as a researcher helped develop the first hyperspace gates. Gates which allowed space ships to move between planets in our solar system significantly faster and safer than previously available. They quickly became ubiquitous due to the savings on time and general logistics.

Now here’s the wrinkle: there is an unspecified fatal flaw in the gates’ system. One that never got addressed due to corporate interests burying it for the sake of profits. Hex who wanted the project paused until research into the flaw and it’s resultant fix was developed – was removed from the project for protesting it’s rushed go ahead. And then fired. (And likely made to sign a Non-Disclosure Agreement. You know how it is.) Because of this he then spun a decades long plan of vengeance on the corporation that wronged him.

Now fast forward to the present. Our cast of cowboys (space bounty hunters) are tasked with catching him. This is due to the corporation placing a large bounty on the entity that is coordinating a series of cyber-attacks against their hypergates. Cyber-attacks that involved the use of custom hardware that utilises an (until now) unknown latent vulnerability within the gates’ systems: in order to completely drain the bank accounts of any customer who uses a hyperspace gate’s pay point.

In the process of chasing up on the bounty, our cast manage to independently capture several of the low-level criminals that have been physically installing these systems into the hyperspace gates themselves. The odd thing is that all these people had nothing in common; except for the fact that they all had in their possession a digital chess piece. A King piece, that allowed the holder to play an online game of chess with a player who turned out to be Chess Master Hex himself.

The chess game

During the story a digital chess piece is scanned. It’s data is displayed on the scanner’s VDU. The contents of which are two different chess games’ moves-sets. Games played between a player named “Deep Blue” and Hex himself. The actual name “Deep Blue” is a reference to a real world notable chess super computer. That is contemporary to the anime’s time (1998). Note: I assume above that the first game was also played by Deep Blue. However, unfortunately half of the first game’s move-set (and metadata) was cut-off. So really only one and a half games’ data is revealed to us. With only the latter game’s data being revealed in it’s entirety on screen.

Now, being the curious cat that I am: I decided to actually play out the second game. The one I could see the complete move-set for. See below. The interesting thing learned here is that they are in fact real chess moves. Not just some random gobbledygook, as I feared it might be. All the moves depicted a valid game of chess, with none of the pieces making any illegal moves.

Well … There is one exception however. On White turn 18, a Rook makes an illegal move from it’s starting position of f1 to e7. (“Rfe7”.) I made the logical inference that it was merely a typo, since it was the only illegal move in the entire move-set up to this point. And since the numbers 1 and 7 typographically look alike: I substituted the legal move of “Rfe1” for it. This amended move resulted in the rest of game, including follow-up moves for that same rook piece being valid. Bravo.

One last little tidbit on this game: when it mentioned Deep Blue I was curious as to whether or not the game featured in the anime itself was famous. I.e. did they copy verbatim one of Deep blue’s games. (ctrl-c ctrl-v style.) And upon a cursory (Wikipedia) search it does not seem to be the case. I compared it to the games that made Deep Blue famous. The notable games where it had won against Russian grandmaster Garry Kasparov, and it didn’t match any of the six games that they had together in 1996, as well as the six rematch games of 1997. I compared all the games with a 1-0 result as is here. First the one’s where Kasparov wins 1-0, assuming him to be a substitute for Hex. Then I chose to include the one’s were Deep Blue wins 1-0 just for the sake completeness. To no avail.

Wikipedia summary of games between Deep Blue and Kasparov

Chess data-set compiled screenshots

Original compiled screenshot

Error corrected compiled screenshot

Screenshots of first camera shots of scanner displaying chess data

Video extract of scanner displaying chess data

Chess game demonstration

Chess game demonstration stills

Chess game demonstration animation

Radical Edward and Chess Master Hex playing chess using electronic chessboards

What’s the point of this section? I just think that this is cool is all. It illustrates the use of a holographic electronic chess board with public network access. I also love the aesthetics of retro-futuristic tech in general, as well as scrap-tech; and this touches on both. Now look at the screenshot of Edward (possibly?) holding in the ratty network plug into the electronic chessboard’s socket with her foot. It’s surprisingly relatable. (Or maybe I am just projecting.)

I initially wanted to plot the move-set for this game out as well, and do another animation for it too. Since the pieces look to be in consistent positions between shots. (Operative word: “look”.) However I found the process to be too much work for the payoff. The various dynamic camera shots of the chess boards (“boards” plural!) depicting the moves of their respective pieces quickly became disorientating.

My chronically sleep depraved brain soon threw it’s metaphysical hands up in frustrated surrender. Stuff it! The straw that broke the camel’s back as it were, is the shot (@ 00:49) of Hex placing a white queen, despite playing black! I just wasn’t willing to error correct, in addition to wrestling a coherent game out of those hectic camera shots. Still… I may comeback to it one day, if I fancy the challenge. Unlikely.

Moving on. Now look at the startup animation for Edward’s electronic chessboard. Did you notice the spelling error? Nice little bit of ‘Engurish’ there. It made me smile anyway. I mean the 90’s were a golden age for top-shelf Engurish in general. And thankfully Cowboy Bebop is no exception. Unfortunately the English dub is of such high quality that I have had no need to watch the Japanese original audio version, so I have likely missed out on some peak spoken Engurish as a consequence. What a genuine shame.

Aggregated screenshots of chess game

Video compilation of chess game

Sorry about the audio syncing issues in this vid. All settings are good, yet Flowblade (repeatedly) renders the video with de-synced audio. I am not sure why. :/ I am not going to chase it up right now because it isn’t really important. (And not worth the delay.) The visuals are what I am primarily demoing here.

Closing thoughts

The funny thing is that I don’t even really watch much anime anymore. However like I said earlier: I have had my interest sparked in playing chess as of late. I’ve been playing it at work using smartphone apps (like lichess.org or chess.com) as well as using a physical set against my work colleges. And while I was playing I was suddenly reminded of Cowboy Bebop’s chess episode. Specifically the scene with the junky scanner displaying the chess data lopsided on a monochrome green CRT monitor. And the idea suddenly occurred to me: “I wonder what that game actually looks like”. And that’s how this write-up came to be. I hope it has entertained you if nothing else.

Thank you for reading.

Acronyms used

CRT – Cathode Ray Tube
GIF – Graphics Interchange File
GIMP – GNU Image Manipulation Program
GNU – GNU’s Not Unix! (recursive acronym)
PNG – Portable Network Graphic
VDU – Visual Display Unit

Links, references, and further reading

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cowboy_Bebop
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Cowboy_Bebop_episodes
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Deep_Blue_(chess_computer)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Deep_Blue_versus_Garry_Kasparov
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engrish
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GNU_operating_system
https://imagemagick.org/Usage/
https://www.gimp.org/
https://linuxmint.com/
https://jliljebl.github.io/flowblade/
https://www.gnu.org/software/xboard/
https://www.videolan.org/vlc/
https://www.lichess.org
https://www.chess.com
https://www.rd.com/article/what-does-gif-stand-for/

#0011: Copy-paste of “Thoughts on Flash” by Steve Jobs (2010)

#0011: Copy-paste of “Thoughts on Flash” by Steve Jobs (2010)

Apple logo with Adobe Flash logo on top of it

Preamble

This is a transcription of an open letter written in 2010 on the subject of Adobe Flash by the CEO of Apple of the time: Steve Jobs. I paste it here for referential and posterity purposes.

Rather annoyingly Apple has since removed the original article from their official company website, so this is a copy from a secondary source. An archive website called: web.archive.org (A.K.A wayback machine). This was then verified by comparing it with copies from other website articles published around 2010. Check the links and references section for specifics. I think this is a good illustration of the fragility of information on the internet. When primary (controlled) sources can suddenly disappear; we have to rely on secondary sources and their general trustworthiness.

(START QUOTE)

Thoughts on Flash

Apple has a long relationship with Adobe. In fact, we met Adobe’s founders when they were in their proverbial garage. Apple was their first big customer, adopting their Postscript language for our new Laserwriter printer. Apple invested in Adobe and owned around 20% of the company for many years. The two companies worked closely together to pioneer desktop publishing and there were many good times. Since that golden era, the companies have grown apart. Apple went through its near death experience, and Adobe was drawn to the corporate market with their Acrobat products. Today the two companies still work together to serve their joint creative customers – Mac users buy around half of Adobe’s Creative Suite products – but beyond that there are few joint interests.

I wanted to jot down some of our thoughts on Adobe’s Flash products so that customers and critics may better understand why we do not allow Flash on iPhones, iPods and iPads. Adobe has characterized our decision as being primarily business driven – they say we want to protect our App Store – but in reality it is based on technology issues. Adobe claims that we are a closed system, and that Flash is open, but in fact the opposite is true. Let me explain.

First, there’s “Open”.

Adobe’s Flash products are 100% proprietary. They are only available from Adobe, and Adobe has sole authority as to their future enhancement, pricing, etc. While Adobe’s Flash products are widely available, this does not mean they are open, since they are controlled entirely by Adobe and available only from Adobe. By almost any definition, Flash is a closed system.

Apple has many proprietary products too. Though the operating system for the iPhone, iPod and iPad is proprietary, we strongly believe that all standards pertaining to the web should be open. Rather than use Flash, Apple has adopted HTML5, CSS and JavaScript – all open standards. Apple’s mobile devices all ship with high performance, low power implementations of these open standards. HTML5, the new web standard that has been adopted by Apple, Google and many others, lets web developers create advanced graphics, typography, animations and transitions without relying on third party browser plug-ins (like Flash). HTML5 is completely open and controlled by a standards committee, of which Apple is a member.

Apple even creates open standards for the web. For example, Apple began with a small open source project and created WebKit, a complete open-source HTML5 rendering engine that is the heart of the Safari web browser used in all our products. WebKit has been widely adopted. Google uses it for Android’s browser, Palm uses it, Nokia uses it, and RIM (Blackberry) has announced they will use it too. Almost every smartphone web browser other than Microsoft’s uses WebKit. By making its WebKit technology open, Apple has set the standard for mobile web browsers.

Second, there’s the “full web”.

Adobe has repeatedly said that Apple mobile devices cannot access “the full web” because 75% of video on the web is in Flash. What they don’t say is that almost all this video is also available in a more modern format, H.264, and viewable on iPhones, iPods and iPads. YouTube, with an estimated 40% of the web’s video, shines in an app bundled on all Apple mobile devices, with the iPad offering perhaps the best YouTube discovery and viewing experience ever. Add to this video from Vimeo, Netflix, Facebook, ABC, CBS, CNN, MSNBC, Fox News, ESPN, NPR, Time, The New York Times, The Wall Street Journal, Sports Illustrated, People, National Geographic, and many, many others. iPhone, iPod and iPad users aren’t missing much video.

Another Adobe claim is that Apple devices cannot play Flash games. This is true. Fortunately, there are over 50,000 games and entertainment titles on the App Store, and many of them are free. There are more games and entertainment titles available for iPhone, iPod and iPad than for any other platform in the world.

Third, there’s reliability, security and performance.

Symantec recently highlighted Flash for having one of the worst security records in 2009. We also know first hand that Flash is the number one reason Macs crash. We have been working with Adobe to fix these problems, but they have persisted for several years now. We don’t want to reduce the reliability and security of our iPhones, iPods and iPads by adding Flash.

In addition, Flash has not performed well on mobile devices. We have routinely asked Adobe to show us Flash performing well on a mobile device, any mobile device, for a few years now. We have never seen it. Adobe publicly said that Flash would ship on a smartphone in early 2009, then the second half of 2009, then the first half of 2010, and now they say the second half of 2010. We think it will eventually ship, but we’re glad we didn’t hold our breath. Who knows how it will perform?

Fourth, there’s battery life.

To achieve long battery life when playing video, mobile devices must decode the video in hardware; decoding it in software uses too much power. Many of the chips used in modern mobile devices contain a decoder called H.264 – an industry standard that is used in every Blu-ray DVD player and has been adopted by Apple, Google (YouTube), Vimeo, Netflix and many other companies.

Although Flash has recently added support for H.264, the video on almost all Flash websites currently requires an older generation decoder that is not implemented in mobile chips and must be run in software. The difference is striking: on an iPhone, for example, H.264 videos play for up to 10 hours, while videos decoded in software play for less than 5 hours before the battery is fully drained.

When websites re-encode their videos using H.264, they can offer them without using Flash at all. They play perfectly in browsers like Apple’s Safari and Google’s Chrome without any plugins whatsoever, and look great on iPhones, iPods and iPads.

Fifth, there’s Touch.

Flash was designed for PCs using mice, not for touch screens using fingers. For example, many Flash websites rely on “rollovers”, which pop up menus or other elements when the mouse arrow hovers over a specific spot. Apple’s revolutionary multi-touch interface doesn’t use a mouse, and there is no concept of a rollover. Most Flash websites will need to be rewritten to support touch-based devices. If developers need to rewrite their Flash websites, why not use modern technologies like HTML5, CSS and JavaScript?

Even if iPhones, iPods and iPads ran Flash, it would not solve the problem that most Flash websites need to be rewritten to support touch-based devices.

Sixth, the most important reason.

Besides the fact that Flash is closed and proprietary, has major technical drawbacks, and doesn’t support touch based devices, there is an even more important reason we do not allow Flash on iPhones, iPods and iPads. We have discussed the downsides of using Flash to play video and interactive content from websites, but Adobe also wants developers to adopt Flash to create apps that run on our mobile devices.

We know from painful experience that letting a third party layer of software come between the platform and the developer ultimately results in sub-standard apps and hinders the enhancement and progress of the platform. If developers grow dependent on third party development libraries and tools, they can only take advantage of platform enhancements if and when the third party chooses to adopt the new features. We cannot be at the mercy of a third party deciding if and when they will make our enhancements available to our developers.

This becomes even worse if the third party is supplying a cross platform development tool. The third party may not adopt enhancements from one platform unless they are available on all of their supported platforms. Hence developers only have access to the lowest common denominator set of features. Again, we cannot accept an outcome where developers are blocked from using our innovations and enhancements because they are not available on our competitor’s platforms.

Flash is a cross platform development tool. It is not Adobe’s goal to help developers write the best iPhone, iPod and iPad apps. It is their goal to help developers write cross platform apps. And Adobe has been painfully slow to adopt enhancements to Apple’s platforms. For example, although Mac OS X has been shipping for almost 10 years now, Adobe just adopted it fully (Cocoa) two weeks ago when they shipped CS5. Adobe was the last major third party developer to fully adopt Mac OS X.

Our motivation is simple – we want to provide the most advanced and innovative platform to our developers, and we want them to stand directly on the shoulders of this platform and create the best apps the world has ever seen. We want to continually enhance the platform so developers can create even more amazing, powerful, fun and useful applications. Everyone wins – we sell more devices because we have the best apps, developers reach a wider and wider audience and customer base, and users are continually delighted by the best and broadest selection of apps on any platform.

Conclusions.

Flash was created during the PC era – for PCs and mice. Flash is a successful business for Adobe, and we can understand why they want to push it beyond PCs. But the mobile era is about low power devices, touch interfaces and open web standards – all areas where Flash falls short.

The avalanche of media outlets offering their content for Apple’s mobile devices demonstrates that Flash is no longer necessary to watch video or consume any kind of web content. And the 200,000 apps on Apple’s App Store proves that Flash isn’t necessary for tens of thousands of developers to create graphically rich applications, including games.

New open standards created in the mobile era, such as HTML5, will win on mobile devices (and PCs too). Perhaps Adobe should focus more on creating great HTML5 tools for the future, and less on criticizing Apple for leaving the past behind.

Steve Jobs
April, 2010

(END QUOTE)

References, links, further reading

Primary Source:

  • [REMOVED] https://www.apple.com/hotnews/thoughts-on-flash/

Secondary Sources:

  • https://appleinsider.com/articles/10/04/29/apples_steve_jobs_publishes_public_thoughts_on_flash_letter
  • https://medium.com/riow/thoughts-on-flash-1d1c8588fe07
  • https://web.archive.org/web/20100703090358/https://www.apple.com/hotnews/thoughts-on-flash/

Steve Jobs at the 2010 D8 Conference video (extract on flash)

hyperlink: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YPb9eRNyIrQ

Steve Jobs at the 2010 D8 Conference (full conference)

hyperlink: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a0AZLPqjpkg

  • https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thoughts_on_Flash
  • https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HTML5#%22Thoughts_on_Flash%22

#0003: Basic techniques for connecting wires

#0003: Basic techniques for connecting wires

picture comparing: pig-tail, straight solder, and western union splices

Connections discussed:

  1. Straight solder splice
  2. Pig-tail splice
  3. Western Union splice
  4. T-junction splice

STRAIGHT SOLDER SPLICE

picture showing two wires with their exposed copper ends coated in solder
picture showing a basic straight solder connection between two wires

The straight solder connection is made by aligning two opposite facing wires in adjacent-parallel, tinning them individually, then soldering them together. This joint is most suited for smaller gauge wires. Especially in low-voltage or low-current applications.

I find I use this joint frequently when prototyping and stringing various PCB modules together, such as power-supplies and buck-boost converters. This is because it allows me to make a more than strong enough bond very quickly; and without damaging the wires, by avoiding subjecting them to repeated mechanical strain. For example: by twisting them together and soldering, then de-soldering and unravelling them whenever I want to disconnect a module; as is the case with the other types of joints. With this connection however, it is simple: align and solder to connect; then apply flux, heat, and pull apart to disconnect.

The straight solder connection is actually rather strong in my opinion. When applied properly, it creates a bond that can not be pulled apart easily. I tested this joint by wrapping the wires around my hands then trying to pull the joint apart. It might eventually give, but only after considerable force is applied.

Despite it’s initial success with my basic stress test; I still wouldn’t recommend using this type of joint for any permanent applications. This is because, in my opinion, I don’t believe that it will stand up well in most real-world settings. Settings that involve: temperature swings, vibration, or constant stress on the wire and joint. These things can exacerbate any small imperfections in the weld to the point that they can create fissures that can either cause problems like intermittent connections or outright brake the bond. Since the solder is the only thing keeping the connection, any stress applied to it isn’t mitigated by anything. This strain coupled with environmental heat would make this type of connection unreliable in the field. An example of this would be wiring around an engine.

Still though, as long as the wire is not subjected to any real or ongoing strain in its application, it is not a bad option to utilise this type of connection. Especially for temporary or semi-permanent add-ons to an already established system. For example adding a voltmeter module to an electric bicycle to keep track of the battery levels. That way the module can quickly be de-soldered off or be further modded later with a switch as an example. This type of bond also has the smallest footprint. Allowing smaller sized heat-shrink to be easily applied as insulation.

PIG-TAIL SPLICE

picture showing a pig tail splice between two wires
picture showing a pig tail splice between two wires, the connecting twist stands at a right angle between the two connected wires, revealing some broken copper strands within the connection.
picture showing a pig tail splice between two wires, the connecting twist has been folded down onto one of the wires

The pig-tail or rat-tail splice is probably the most common type of connection that I have encountered in the wild. It is made by holding two wires in adjacent-parallel (facing the same direction), then twisting the exposed ends together. Its a quick and dirty solution to make a good mechanical connection. Usually this type of connection is insulated with either sticky tape or even heat-shrink for a semi-permanent solution. It is not soldered in many cases, as the twists and tape tend to make a ‘good enough’ connection for the use-case.

The alignment of the connecting wires is something to take into consideration when deciding whether or not to use this splice. In cases where the wires are to remain adjacent-parallel and facing the same direction; the pig-tail splice is a good candidate. It will allow the user to join two wires next to each other, whilst minimising any change of location, necessary in order for the wires to accommodate the new connection. Example use-case: connecting 2 or more adjacent wires within a ribbon cable. Additionally, with this setup: the connection can be easily soldered and insulated with heat-shrink by sliding it over the open end.

However in cases where the user is joining two opposite facing wires, they are usually left with a connection made up of a twisted pair that veers off at a right angle. This is then folded onto one of the wires in order to apply insulation. This is mechanically weak, as it concentrates any stress on the wire/connection or more accurately “pulling force”; at the bend. The first twist where the two wires meet.

This configuration of the pig-tail splice rarely takes solder well without ending up with an overly large footprint or bulge that the user has to then slide heat-shrink over. It is also too easy to melt the wires whilst soldering because of how close the insulation on the wires are to each other.

To conclude, this connection is good in solder-less temporary or semi-permanent applications. But if you want a more permanent bond (especially for opposite facing wires), the western union splice is a far better solution.

WESTERN UNION SPLICE

picture showing two wires being lined up for a connection
picture showing the exposed copper ends of two wires crossed over each other
picture showing an unsoldered western union splice between two wires
picture showing a western union splice between two wires

The western union splice is named after the Western Union Telegraph Company. This connection involves crossing the exposed ends of two opposite facing wires together, at a mid-point between the wire’s exposed tip and the start of it’s insulation: in an “X” shape. Then twisting them around each other’s exposed base sections. Continue twisting until the insulation of the opposite wire is reached. Then trim off any excess exposed wire tips. This makes a linear and very strong mechanical connection between the two wires; by maximising the contact area the wires have with each other within the connection. It also functions as a knot of sorts, and once properly soldered, it becomes essentially stronger than either wire itself. In addition it has a relatively small footprint and consequently takes to sliding heat-shrink over it rather well.

This is probably my most favoured splice for permanent connections. However for those same reasons, it is also largely inappropriate for temporary applications. This is because it becomes a hassle to de-solder and untangle the wires. This process will also almost definitely damage the wires involved; by fraying and breaking some copper strands from the stress of unravelling.

THE T-JUNCTION SPLICE

picture showing a T junction connection between three wires
picture showing a T junction connection between three wires

The “T” junction splice is any connection where you add a third wire to an existing connection. The most basic version involves removing the insulation from the mid section of a wire; then wrapping another wire around the exposed section before soldering it in place. Then insulating it. This method can also apply to any of the above connections – and the strength of the additional connection usually depends on the strength of the underlying connection.

You could opt to pig-tail together three wires into a T-junction (or four into an “X”, etc…), or straight solder three wires, or even create a western union splice, then tightly hitch the third wire over that connection for maximum strength.

At its most basic a ‘T’ junction splice is exactly that. Three wires connected together in a rough ‘T’ shape. Everything else is up to the user, and largely depends on the use-case and it’s needs.

SOURCES / REFERENCES / FURTHER READING:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Western_Union_splice

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/T-splice

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rat-tail_splice

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Point-to-point_construction

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Printed_circuit_board

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solder

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flux_(metallurgy)https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soldering

#0002: Cleaning up after an alkaline battery leak

#0002: Cleaning up after an alkaline battery leak

picture depicting a stack of rusted and leaking double A batteries

This will be a rather basic guide on how to clean out a device after an alkaline battery leak.

Whenever I come across an old device, that for some initially unknown reason refuses to power on. Chances are, that someone left disposable alkaline batteries inside it, and that they have leaked. There are a number of reasons as to why people leave batteries inside devices. Predominantly: laziness, ignorance, or forgetfulness. There are also a number of reasons as to why these same forgotten batteries leak. Batteries with mixed charges, reverse charging each other, or a constant low current draw causing leaking; are but two examples.

Unfortunately, a more in depth look into what causes disposable batteries to leak is outside of the scope of this article. However it is something that I am interested in exploring at a later date. Check the further reading section of this article for the hotlink to that, when I eventually get round to penning it.

I cannot count the number of times I have opened the battery compartment of a device, that has been left in storage for a while; only to be greeted with a vented battery, rust, and the the blue-white fuzzy carpet of alkaline crystals growing out of it. Meshing into, fusing with, and corroding the negative terminal’s spring contacts. This infection then proceeded down the circuit and further into the device and onto more complicated/valuable components. In this regard, an unstemmed battery leak has the potential to brick a device.

picture depicting heavy alkaline battery leak on battery spring terminal

So, how do you deal with it? Well, if caught early and the leak hasn’t progressed far beyond the battery itself, and a bit of surface level corrosion on the spring contacts; then it is really not much of an issue. A quick wipe down with a damp cloth after disposing of the batteries, should suffice. I recommend using isopropyl alcohol to dampen the cleaning cloth, mainly because it becomes non-conductive very quickly by evaporating readily. It also doesn’t leave any contaminants like water might. However water is fine to use in a pinch; just make sure it is fully evaporated and that there is no substance residue left after cleaning; before you power up the device.

picture depicting very light alkaline battery leak on battery spring terminal

If the leak has had the time necessary to progress further into the circuit and deeper into the metals. That’s when you have to take more invasive steps in order to remove it. There are two main ways to deal with an advanced battery leak. Which one to use, largely depends on circumstance. The most important factor being whether or not the affect parts can be removed from the device.

Method #1: Acid Bath

The first method of remedy, requires the removal of the affected parts and the use of an acid bath. Removing the affected parts, will likely require de-soldering. Next, create a bath, of vinegar and water at a ratio of approximately 1:3. So 25% vinegar and 75% water, or thereabouts. This leaves you with a mildly acidic solution for you to submerge any affected parts within. Mix the solution well, then drop the parts in. Leave it for some time. How long for based on your own judgment. I recommend 30 minutes to a couple of hours depending on the invasiveness of the alkaline crystals into the metals.

picture depicting an acid bath (blue tub with vinegar-water inside it), and a pair of forceps

Remove the parts from the solution when you think that they have been in there long enough. At this point, they will require brushing down, to remove any stuck on materials. Use a strong bristly brush for this, something like a firm toothbrush will do. For those wondering, a wire brush would probably be overkill for this application, especially since the subjected parts would likely be rather small, and wire brushes are traditionally made for uses with larger items. Wire brushes will also likely remove the finish on the metal parts, that is if the acid bath hasn’t done so already.

picture depicting heavy alkaline battery leak on battery spring terminal

The main reasons why I recommend using a mildly acidic solution to counteract the alkaline crystals is: one, in order to minimise the severity of the reaction between acid and alkaline; and thus minimise the chances of additional corrosion or damage done to the metals in the process; and two, to minimise the chances of the acid removing or damaging the metal’s finish by reacting with it. It should be noted that plenty of parts in modern mass produced devices are made up of mixed metals, then given a chrome finish for uniformity.

picture depicting battery terminals with chrome finish removed by the acid bath

I should note that when I say ‘part’, I am referring to simple primarily metal constructs within devices; such as spring terminals or basic switches. I am not referring to more complicated components such as resistors, capacitors, transistors, or anything more sophisticated than those examples. This is because the acidic solution is very likely to compromise the internal structure or chemistry of any components submerged within it, if the leak’s corrosion hasn’t done so already. Bricking the component in the process. More on what to do with leak affected components mentioned later.

picture depicting two leak corroded battery terminals with chrome finish removed by the acid bath

After brushing all foreign materials off of the parts, dry them off, then wipe them down with a cloth laced with isopropyl alcohol. Continue until you are confident that you have removed all contaminants including traces of alkaline crystals and the acidic solution. Once this is done leave the parts to dry fully, before then placing them back into the device and likely soldering them back into the circuit they come from. That’s it, done.

Method #2: Acid Wrap

The second method of removing alkaline crystals is used when the affected part cannot be removed either from the device or it’s circuit for whatever reason. A good example of this is when a part is either welded, crimped, or glued into place; making it’s removal potentially too destructive to consider lightly.

picture depicting two spring contacts, one clean and the other covered in alkaline crystals
picture depicting two spring contacts, one clean and the other covered in alkaline crystals (front view)
picture depicting two spring contacts, one clean and the other covered in alkaline crystals (back view)

This method requires either tissue paper or cloth. Id est, something that can soak up liquid and cling to a particular structure without external pressure/force. I use tissue paper for this example. Soak the tissue paper in a diluted acidic solution; enough so that it has plenty of solution available but not enough that it drips excess. Then wrap it around the affected parts and wait for time, before removing it and brushing off any loose materials. Rinse and repeat until it looks done. Then clean and wipe down the part with an isopropyl laced cloth. Done.

You can adjust the ratio of vinegar to water to your liking. I still recommend a mildly acidic solution to minimise the severity of the reaction (and any damage caused from it), but the more acidic the solution is, the quicker it’ll dissolve the alkaline crystals off of the affected parts. From my experience a ratio of 1:1 seems to work out well.

Another tip for this method is to properly isolate the rest of the device from the part you are currently working on. This is done to avoid any accidental drips from the tissue paper or off-spray caused by brushing. Vinegar-water and electronic components are best left separated. With that in mind, I recommend using a plastic bag and tape. The plastic bag functions as a waterproof membrane and the tape holds it in place. Simple.

picture depicting two spring contacts, one clean and the other covered in light rust (viewed with chassis)
picture depicting two spring contacts, one clean and the other covered in light rust (front view)
picture depicting two spring contacts, one clean and the other covered in light rust (back view)

Dealing with components

Now that the basic method of cleaning metal parts has been explored, you may be wondering as what to do when the leak has reached more complex components. Well, the answer is simple. Try to remove whatever battery residue you can mechanically; i.e. just using a brush or a small chisel of some sort. Then de-solder/remove the component from the circuit. Test it appropriately. I recommend having both a multimeter as well as a multi-function tester on hand for this. If it is still within specification, solder it back into circuit; if not, replace it. There is not much one can do for any affected components beyond this. Once a capacitor or resistor is broken, it needs to be replaced.

Conclusion

As a final note, I should also mention that in a lot of situations: replacement of the affected metal parts is probably the more appropriate recourse to severe leak damage then repair might be. This means replacing spring terminals, and creating jumper wires as replacements for corroded PCB traces. This is because the repair can weaken the metal, leaving one with brittle spring terminals or a trace with more resistance in it than initially intentioned. However having said that, if you either can not remove the part, or don’t have the prerequisite replacements: then an ugly repair is better than no repair at all.

Sources/References/Further reading:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alkaline_battery#Leaks

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/76/Alkaline_Battery_Leakage_Inside_a_Product.png

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Isopropyl_alcohol